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Encyclopedia > Action Directe (climb)
View on Action Directe at Waldkopf.
View on Action Directe at Waldkopf.

Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany. Image File history File linksMetadata Size of this preview: 450 × 600 pixelsFull resolution (1536 × 2048 pixel, file size: 1. ... Image File history File linksMetadata Size of this preview: 450 × 600 pixelsFull resolution (1536 × 2048 pixel, file size: 1. ... Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. ...


It has been climbed by nine people.


The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence. Simpson and Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves. In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 - 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany. ...


The repeat ascents were by:

  • Alexander Adler in 1995
  • Iker Pou in 2000
  • Dave Graham in 2001
  • Christian Bindhammer in 2003
  • Rich Simpson on 2005 Oct 13
  • Dai Koyamada on 2005 Oct 15
  • Markus Bock on 2005 Oct 22
  • Kilian Fischhuber on 2006 Sep 25.

Despite being generally recognized as the world's first 9a, Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI, which corresponds to 8c+/5.14c. David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981 in Maine) is a professional rock climber. ... Dai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber. ... In mountaineering and related climbing sports, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that attempts to assess the difficulty and danger of climbing the route. ... In mountaineering and related climbing sports, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that attempts to assess the difficulty and danger of climbing the route. ...


It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route. Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 - 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany. ... A typical campus board at a rock climbing training facility The Campus Board is a Rock Climbing training tool, usually made from thin slats of wood attached to a board in a ladderlike fashion, then hung at a less than vertical angle (around 20 degrees) somewhere with plenty of leg...


External links

  • 3rd ascent and picture
  • 4th ascent
  • 5th ascent
  • 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
  • 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
  • 8th ascent by Markus Bock
  • 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber

INTERVIEWS

  • Rich Simpson interview on Action Directe
  • Dai Koyamada interview on Action Directe
  • Markus Bock interview on Action Directe
  • Kilian Fischhuber interview on Action Directe

  Results from FactBites:
 
Training for Climbing - Spadout (2454 words)
Climbing Gyms can be a highway to adding the strength and endurance needed to crank up the grade for next season.
Climb up to the height of the first quickdraw at your gym and clip this quickdraw.
If you have been climbing in the gym for a while and are constantly falling off those steep climbs (even though the holds are really good) you are being effected by the barn door effect.
SPORT CLIMBING INFO - Zolum (1077 words)
To "lead" a sport climb is to climb a route with a rope tied to the climbing harness with the loose end handled by the belayer.
In some climbing areas, notably in the United Kingdom, sport climbing is frowned upon, because many climbers believe that the permanent placing of bolts in mountainous and sea-cliff areas detracts from the wilderness experience, damages the rock, or devalues the achievements of the first ascensionist who climbed the route by placing their own protection.
Sport climbing is a relatively modern branch of the sport, becoming popular in the US during the 1980s, other places a little earlier or later.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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