Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev (January 16, 1958 - December 25, 1997) was a Russian climber who made seven ascents of 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. The direct transliteration of his Russian name is Anatoly Nikolayevich Bukreyev. is the 16th day of the year in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 359th day of the year (360th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... For the band, see 1997 (band). ... Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station. ... General Name, symbol, number oxygen, O, 8 Chemical series nonmetals, chalcogens Group, period, block 16, 2, p Appearance colorless (gas) pale blue (liquid) Standard atomic weight 15. ...

Boukreev was relatively unknown, though well accomplished, in the international climbing community until the 1996 spring climbing season on Mount Everest, when twelve people died in one of the biggest tragedies in the climbing history of Mount Everest. The event was chronicled in the best-selling books The Climb by Boukreev and Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. “Everest” redirects here. ... The Climb is an account by Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev of the May 1996 Mount Everest expeditions, during which five climbers lost their lives. ... Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. ... Jon Krakauer Jon Krakauer (born April 12, 1954), is an American non-fiction author and mountaineer, well-known for outdoor and mountain-climbing writing. ...

Boukreev was born on January 16, 1958 in the southern Ural Mountains in the Soviet Union. After completing high school in 1975, he attended Chelabinsk University for Pedagogy in the Russian SFSR where he majored in physics, and earned his Bachelor of Science degree in 1979. At the same time, he also completed a coaching program for cross-country skiing. is the 16th day of the year in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Map of the Ural Mountains The Ural Mountains (Russian: , Uralskiye gory) (also known as the Urals, the Riphean Mountains in Greco-Roman antiquity, and known as the Stone Belt) are a mountain range that runs roughly north and south through western Russia. ... State motto: Russian: Пролетарии всех стран, соединяйтесь! Translation: Workers of the world, unite! Capital Moscow Official language Russian Established In the USSR:  - Since  - Until November 7, 1917 November 7, 1917 December 12, 1991 (dissolution) Area  - Total  - Water (%) Ranked 1st in the USSR 17,075,200 km² 13% Population  - Total   - Density Ranked 1st in the... A magnet levitating above a high-temperature superconductor demonstrates the Meissner effect. ... A coach is a person who supports people (clients) to achieve their goals, with goal setting, encouragement and questions. ... Cross-Country trails are often less crowded than Alpine ski slopes. ...

Climbing accomplishments

The major highlights of Boukreev's climbing career are as follows:

• 1987
  • Lenin Peak (7,137 m)

• 1989
  • April 15 Kanchenjunga (8,556 m) - new route
  • April 30 Kanchenjunga - first traverse of the four 8,000 m summits of the massif

• 1990
  • April Mount McKinley - Cassin Ridge route
  • May Mount McKinley - West Rib route

• 1991
  • May 10 Dhaulagiri - new route on the west wall
  • October 7 Mount Everest - South Col route

• 1993
  • May 14 Mount McKinley (6,193 m)
  • July 1 K2 (8,611 m)

• 1994
  • April 29 Makalu II (8,460 m)
  • May 15 Makalu (8,476 m)

• 1995
  • May Mount Everest - North Ridge route
  • June 30 Peak Abai (4,010 m) - guide for President of Kazakhstan
  • October 8 Dhaulagiri (8,176 m) - fastest ascent record (17h 15m)
  • December 8 Manaslu (8,156 m)

• 1996
  • May 10 Mount Everest - South Col route
  • May 17 Lhotse - solo ascent, speed record
  • September 25 Cho Oyu (8,201 m)
  • October 9 North summit of Shishapangma (8,008 m)

• 1997
  • April 23 Mount Everest (8,850 m)
  • May 23 Lhotse (8,501 m)
  • July 7 Broad Peak (8,047 m) - solo ascent
  • July 14 Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) - solo ascent

Lenin Peak, known as Mount Kaufmann until 1928, is the highest mountain in the Trans-Alay Range of central Asia and the second highest peak in the Pamir Mountains, exceeded only by Ismail Samani Peak (7,495m). ... is the 105th day of the year (106th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Kanchenjunga (a number of alternative spellings are used Kangchenjunga which is the correct spelling, Kangchen Dzö-nga, Khangchendzonga, Kanchenjanga, Kachendzonga, or Kangchanfanga) is the third highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Nepal and the highest in India, located in the Taplejung district of Sikkim, straddling the... is the 120th day of the year (121st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... In geology, a massif is a section of a planets crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. ... Denali redirects here. ... is the 130th day of the year (131st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) is the seventh highest mountain in the world. ... is the 280th day of the year (281st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... “Everest” redirects here. ... May 14 is the 134th day of the year (135th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 182nd day of the year (183rd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... For other uses, see K2 (disambiguation). ... is the 119th day of the year (120th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 135th day of the year (136th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest. ... For other uses, see May (disambiguation). ... is the 181st day of the year (182nd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... President is a title held by many leaders of organizations, companies, trade unions, universities, and countries. ... is the 281st day of the year (282nd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 342nd day of the year (343rd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Manaslu (also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, located in the Nepalese Himalayas. ... is the 130th day of the year (131st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 137th day of the year (138th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Mount Everest via the South Col. ... is the 268th day of the year (269th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Cho Oyu (or Qowowuyag; in Nepal चोयु, Tibetan in Wylie transliteration: jo bo dbu yag; Chinese: 卓奧有山, Pinyin: Zhuóàoyǒu Shān) is the sixth highest mountain in the world. ... is the 282nd day of the year (283rd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Shishapangma is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and the lowest of the eight-thousanders. ... is the 113th day of the year (114th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 143rd day of the year (144th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 188th day of the year (189th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Broad Peak (originally named K3) is the 12th highest mountain on Earth and 4th highest in Pakistan. ... is the 195th day of the year (196th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Gasherbrum II (also known as K4) is the thirteenth highest mountain on Earth. ...

Everest 1996

Boukreev was the lead climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition headed by Scott Fischer. The team included eight clients, each of whom had paid $65,000 USD for a fully-guided summit attempt of Everest: Image File history File links Unbalanced_scales. ... Shortcut: WP:NPOVD Articles that have been linked to this page are the subject of an NPOV dispute (NPOV stands for Neutral Point Of View; see below). ... This article or section does not cite its references or sources. ... Scott E Fischer (December 24, 1955 – May 11, 1996) was an American climber and guide. ... USD redirects here. ...

• Martin Adams (47)¹ - had climbed Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro
• Charlotte Fox (38) - had climbed all 54 4200 m peaks in Colorado and two 8000 m peaks
• Lene Gammelgaard (35) - accomplished mountaineer
• Dale Kruse (45) - personal friend of Fischer for many years, first to sign up
• Tim Madsen (33) - climbed extensively in Colorado and Canadian Rockies, little experience of 8000 m peaks
• Sandy Hill Pittman (41) - had climbed six of the Seven Summits
• Pete Schoening (68) - one of the first Americans to climb Mount Vinson and Gasherbrum I
• Klev Schoening (38) - Pete's nephew; former US national downhill ski racer, no 8000 m experience

¹All ages given relative to 1996. Cerro Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas. ... Denali redirects here. ... Kilimanjaro is a mountain in northeastern Tanzania. ... Official language(s) English Capital Denver Largest city Denver Largest metro area Denver-Aurora Metro Area Area  Ranked 8th  - Total 104,185 sq mi (269,837 km²)  - Width 280 miles (451 km)  - Length 380 miles (612 km)  - % water 0. ... The Seven Summits on an Elevation World Map. ... Pete Schoening (July 30, 1927 - September 22, 2004) was an American mountaineer. ... Vinson Massif is the highest mountain of Antarctica, located about 1,200 km (750 mi) from the South Pole. ... Gasherbrum I (also known as Hidden Peak or K5) is the eleventh highest peak on Earth. ... Motto: (Out Of Many, One) (traditional) In God We Trust (1956 to date) Anthem: The Star-Spangled Banner Capital Washington D.C. Largest city New York City None at federal level (English de facto) Government Federal constitutional republic  - President George Walker Bush (R)  - Vice President Dick Cheney (R) Independence from...

Pete Schoening had decided not to make the final push to the summit while still at Everest Base Camp. The team began the assault on the summit on May 6, planning to bypass Camp I and stop at Camp II for the night. However, when the guides reached Camp I, they found Kruse suffering from altitude sickness and possible cerebral edema in one of the tents. Kruse returned to Base Camp with Fischer for treatment. High altitude cerebral edema (or HACE) is a severe (frequently fatal) form of altitude sickness. ...

Starting around midnight on May 10, Boukreev, Neil Beidleman, Scott Fischer and a team of Sherpas began guiding the six remaining clients to the summit, starting from Camp IV on the South Col (7,900 m/25,900 ft). Delays at the South Summit, caused by the failure of the climbing Sherpas to set the fixed ropes by the time the team reached that point, cost the team an hour on the ascent. The word Sherpa originally referred to an ethnic group from the most mountainous region of Niple, high into the Himalayas (although many of them now live in India). ...

Climbing without supplementary oxygen, Boukreev reached the summit at 1:07 pm. He began his descent to Camp IV at 2:30 pm. By that time, Adams and Klev Schoening had summitted, but Beidleman and the remaining four clients had not yet arrived. Boukreev recorded that he reached Camp IV by 5:00 pm. The reasons for Boukreev's decision to descend ahead of his clients are disputed.^[1] Boukreev maintained that he wanted to be ready to assist struggling clients farther down the slope, and to retrieve hot tea and extra oxygen if necessary.^[2] Journalist Jon Krakauer, who climbed with the Adventure Consultants expedition, asserts that Boukreev's refusal to use supplementary oxygen and lack of warm clothing made it too dangerous for him to wait at the summit for the remaining clients.^[3] Jon Krakauer Jon Krakauer (born April 12, 1954), is an American non-fiction author and mountaineer, well-known for outdoor and mountain-climbing writing. ...

A blizzard struck at 4:00 pm, causing difficulties for the descending team members. The snow buried the fixed ropes and obliterated the trail that the team had broken on the ascent, resulting in several climbers getting lost on the South Col. Beidleman, Schoening, Fox, Madsen, Pittman, and Gammelgaard, along with Adventure Consultants' Mike Groom, Beck Weathers, and Yasuko Namba, wandered in the blizzard until midnight. When they could no longer walk, they huddled some 20 m from a dropoff of the Kangshung Face. Beck Weathers is an American pathologist from Texas. ... Yasuko Namba (February 2, 1949–May 10, 1996) was famous in her native Japan for becoming only the second Japanese woman (after Junko Tabei [1]) to summit all of the Seven Summits [2] including Everest. ...

Near midnight, the blizzard cleared enough for the team to see Camp IV, some 200 m away. Beidleman, Groom, Schoening, and Gammelgaard set off to find help. Madsen and Fox remained with the group to shout for the rescuers. Weathers got separated from the group. Boukreev located the climbers and first brought Pittman to safety, followed by Fox and Madsen. He was not able to go back a third time for Namba.

Fischer, meanwhile, had not reached the summit until 3:45 pm. He was ill, possibly suffering from HACE, and exhausted from the ascent. Fischer was unable to descend below the South Summit (8350 m/ 27395 ft) in the storm. The following day, the climbing Sherpas located Fischer, but his condition had deteriorated so much that they were only able to give palliative care. Boukreev made three subsequent rescue attempts, but found Fischer's frozen body at around 7pm.

In January 1997, Boukreev gave his expedition logs, personal journals, letters and an oral history to Gary Weston DeWalt, who consolidated all the information into a book called The Climb. Boukreev's account of the 1996 expedition differs in many respects from those offered in Krakauer's Into Thin Air, Weathers' Left for Dead, Gammelgaard's Climbing High, and Dickinson's The Other Side of Everest. The Climb was also intended as a response to Krakauer's published criticisms of Boukreev's conduct as a guide. The Climb is an account by Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev of the May 1996 Mount Everest expeditions, during which five climbers lost their lives. ... Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. ...

On December 6, 1997, Todd Burleson, Pete Athans, and Boukreev were awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club for their heroism and devotion in rescuing four lost climbers during this expedition. This is the Alpine Club's most prestigious award; other recipients have included Ed Viesturs and Ed Webster. December 6 is the 340th day of the year (341st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... For the band, see 1997 (band). ... Pete Athans is one of the worlds foremost high-altitude mountaineers. ... The American Alpine Club was founded in 1902 and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to mountaineering, climbing, and the multitude of issues facing climbers. ... Ed Viesturs Ed Viesturs (born June 22, 1959), is one of the worlds premier high-altitude mountaineers. ...

Defenders of Boukreev

In an article in Salon magazine that revisited the 1996 Everest tragedy, writer Weston DeWalt says, "I spoke with Beidleman on April 17, 1997 -- three months before the submission of the manuscript for "The Climb" -- and in the course of that conversation I asked him about a comment he had made during the audio-taped debriefing of Mountain Madness climbers at the Everest Base Camp on May 15, 1996. Beidleman's comment: "I knew Anatoli had gone down. I had no problem with that. I knew that it would have been nice for him to stay, but at the same time it wouldn't have necessarily facilitated our descent any better. I wasn't aware of his instructions to go down immediately from Scott, but after hearing that, I support that. I think that's a very good idea, and, in fact, had he not gone down, his efforts at the bottom collecting people wouldn't have been possible."

DeWalt continues, "Krakauer's claim -- which (Everest climber Martin) Adams says is not true -- to have been a witness to the first of the Boukreev-Fischer exchanges [re: Boukreeve descending ahead of his team] was the same one he made to me when I interviewed him on April 21, 1997. Krakauer offered, "There were five people present for that. Scott and Andy Harris are dead. Anatoli, Martin Adams and I all heard this conversation." As the interview went on, Krakauer backed away from that position and said, "What I do know is what Martin told me." And the second exchange, the one in which Boukreev said that he and Scott agreed to the need for a rapid descent? In my April 21, 1997, interview with Krakauer, I asked him if he knew "for a fact" that a second exchange between Boukreev and Fischer had not taken place. Reflecting upon his suspicion that there had not been a second exchange, he said, "I could be wrong about that. I'm not -- I didn't -- I was there. I left the step [Hillary Step] before Anatoli. Now Scott himself -- I thought their conversation had ended by that point. Maybe I'm wrong. I wasn't there. But I'd be surprised if it continued beyond the time after I left, by the nature of -- well, anyway, I don't know that."

DeWalt adds: "If I limit myself to the subjects of Krakauer's last response to Salon, one comes immediately to mind: Krakauer's charge that Anatoli was inadequately dressed on summit day, a charge proven to be untrue after an examination of photographs taken on the summit of Everest on May 10, 1996."

Annapurna 1997

In the winter of 1997, Boukreev was attempting to climb the south face of Annapurna I (8,078 m) along with Simone Moro, an accomplished Italian mountaineer. They were accompanied by Dimitri Sobolev, a cinematographer from Kazakhstan, who was documenting the attempt. On December 25 around noon, Boukreev and Moro were fixing ropes in a couloir at around the 5,700 m (18,700 ft) level. Suddenly, a cornice broke loose from a ridge not visible from the climbing route. The resulting avalanche knocked Moro down the mountain where he landed just above their tent at Camp I (5,200 m/17,060 ft). Fortuitously, Moro had somehow stayed near the top of the avalanche debris and managed to dig himself out after a few minutes. Unable to see or hear any signs of Boukreev or Sobolev, Moro descended to Annapurna base camp where he was flown by helicopter back to Kathmandu for surgery on his hands, which had been ripped down to the tendons during the fall. Annapurna (Sanskrit, Nepali, Nepal Bhasa: अन्नपूर्ण) is a series of peaks in the Himalaya, a 55-km-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 8,091 m (26,538 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 eight-thousanders. It is located... A Cameraman-Reporter during a MINUSTAH mission in 2007 (Photo: Patrick-André Perron A cinematographer is one photographing with a motion picture camera (the art and science of which is known as cinematography). ... Coils of rope used for long-line fishing A rope (IPA: ) is a length of fibers, twisted or braided together to improve strength for pulling and connecting. ... This page describes terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering. ... The summit of San Jacinto Peak covered by a cornice formed by wind-blown snow. ... The toe of an avalanche in Alaskas Kenai Fjords. ... For the retail store chain, see Kathmandu (company). ... A tendon (or sinew) is a tough band of fibrous connective tissue that connects muscle to bone and is built to withstand tension. ...

News of the accident reached New Mexico on December 26. Linda Wylie, Boukreev's girlfriend, left for Nepal on December 28. Several attempts were made to reach the avalanche site by helicopter but inclement weather in late December prevented search teams from reaching Camp I. There was some hope that perhaps Boukreev and Sobolev had managed to reach Camp I. However, on January 3, 1998, searchers were finally able to reach Camp I and an empty tent. Linda Wylie subsequently issued a somber statement from Kathmandu: Capital Santa Fe Largest city Albuquerque Largest metro area Albuquerque metropolitan area Area  Ranked 5th  - Total 121,665 sq mi (315,194 km²)  - Width 342 miles (550 km)  - Length 370 miles (595 km)  - % water 0. ... is the 360th day of the year (361st in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... is the 3rd day of the year in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1998 (MCMXCVIII) was a common year starting on Thursday (link will display full 1998 Gregorian calendar). ...

At the site of Annapurna base-camp there is a memorial to Boukreev including a quotation of his: Annapurna (Sanskrit, Nepali, Nepal Bhasa: अन्नपूर्ण) is a series of peaks in the Himalaya, a 55-km-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 8,091 m (26,538 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 eight-thousanders. It is located...

References

• The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev and Gary Weston DeWalt, published by St. Martins Paperbacks, 1997, ISBN 0-312-96533-8.

• Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer by Anatoli Boukreev and Linda Wylie, published by St. Martin's Griffin, 2002, ISBN 0-312-29137-X.

External links

• Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund
• Boukreev Killed on Annapurna
• Boukreev and Krakauer debate the facts

See also

• List of climbers
• 1996 Everest Disaster