Anchor (climbing) An arrangement of one or more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or toprope. In climbing, belaying is the technique of controlling the rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. ... Top roping is a style of climbing in which the rope runs from the belayer at the foot of the route through a carabiner connected to an anchor at the top of the route and back down to the climber. ...

A Natural Anchor is one that does not require man-made climbing gear. Such anchors may consist of trees, chockstones already lodged in a crack, horns and protrusions, etc.

An Artificial Anchor consists of man-made climbing gear placed in the rock. Such gear may be Spring Loaded Camming Devices, aluminum chockstones, steel expansion bolts, pitons, etc.

A Belay Anchor is used as a sole attachment to the cliff face, to support a belay or toprope- should ideally be essentially foolproof, consisting of multiple reduntant components (natural and/or artificial), none of which are likely to fail, and none of which in the event of failure would cause the entire anchor to fail. Any one component of a good anchor should be able to support the entire system by itself. Belay anchors are considered bombproof.

A Running Belay Anchor is used as a safegaurd in the event of a fall while lead climbing. Often hastily placed in the stress of the moment, these anchors are not as secure, or bombproof as belay anchors and cannot be relied on as sole attachment points to the rock. Running belay anchors must be backed up by other running belay anchors below should they fail.

Types of Anchor

Indirect When the rope goes from the climber to the belayer. Most often used under controlled circumstances at climbing walls or when the climber doesnt have the weight advantage on the belayer during bottom roped climbs. It is impossible to escape from the system.

Semi-direct When the rope comes from the climber to the belayer, but the belayer is attached separately to an anchor. Often used when multi pitching and the belayer is on a stance. Or when top roping and it is possible that if the climber falls the belayer will be pulled from the stance above the climber. The belayer can, with a little effort then remove themselves from the system if required. it is essential that the belayer is attached to the anchor via the belay loop at the front of the harness. Attaching the belayers harness to the anchor via the back of the harness can cause the harness, when placed under strain constrict inwards elongating front to back, rather then side to side. This can result in crushed pelvis' and serious harm to the belayer.

Direct When the rope comes from the climber to a an anchor. A hanging belay device may be used, although it is common in this instance to just use an italian friction hitch. The belayer is totally free of the system.

References

• Long, John (1993) Climbing Anchors

External links

• Rock Climbing Anchors