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Encyclopedia > Bohemian style

In modern usage, the term "Bohemian" (sometimes shortened to "boho") is applied to people who live unconventional, usually artistic, lives. The adherents of the "Bloomsbury Group", which formed around the Stephen sisters, Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf in the early 20th century, are probably the best-known examples. The original "Bohemians" were travellers or refugees from central Europe (hence, the French bohémien, for "gypsy"). Though a Bohemian is a native of the Czech province of Bohemia, a secondary meaning for bohemian emerged in 19th century France. ... The Bloomsbury Group or Bloomsbury Set or just Bloomsbury, as its adherents would generally refer to it, was an English group of artists and scholars that existed from around 1905 until around World War II. // History The group began as an informal socialwe have been great to society assembly of... Vanessa Bell Vanessa Bell (May 28, 1879 – April 7, 1961), was an English painter and interior designer and a member of the Bloomsbury group. ... Virginia Woolf (née Stephen) (25 January 1882 – 28 March 1941) is by reputation one of the foremost modernist literary figures of the twentieth century. ...


Reflecting on the fashion style of "boho-chic" in the early years of the 21st century, the Sunday Times thought it ironic that "fashionable girls w[ore] ruffly floral skirts in the hope of looking bohemian, nomadic, spirited and non-bourgeois", whereas "gypsy girls themselves ... are sexy and delightful precisely because they do not give a hoot for fashion" (Style, 19 June 2005). By contrast, in the first half of the 20th century, aspects of Bohemian fashion reflected the lifestyle itself. Boho-chic was a style of female fashion (c. ... Bourgeois at the end of the thirteenth century. ...

Contents


Early 20th century

Among female Bohemians in the early 20th century, the "gypsy look" was a recurring theme, popularised by, among others, Dorothy "Dorelia" McNeil (1881-1969), muse and lover of the painter Augustus John (1878-1961), whose full skirts and bright colours gave rise to the so-called "Dorelia look" (Virginia Nicholson (2002) Among the Bohemians). Short bobbed hair was often a Bohemian trait, having originated in Paris c.1909 and been adopted by students at the Slade School of Art (see Gilbert Cannan (1916) Mendel) several years before actresses such as Colleen Moore and Louise Brooks became associated with it in the mid 1920s. On her arrival in Tilling (Rye) in E F Benson's comic novel Mapp and Lucia (1931), Lucia describes "Quaint" Irene as "a girl with no hat and an Eton crop. She was dressed in a fisherman's jersey and knickerbockers". MuSE is an acronym that stands for Multiple Streaming Engine. ... Artist John, on a 1928 Time cover Augustus Edwin John OM (January 4, 1878–October 13, 1961) was a Welsh painter. ... Woman sporting bob with finger waves, late 1920s A bob is a haircut, usually for women but occasionally for men, in which the hair is cut short, but a weighted area is left to fall between the ears and chin. ... Part of the University College London, the Slade School of Art was founded in 1868 as the result of an endowment by Felix Slade. ... Colleen Moore (August 19, 1900 - January 25, 1988) was a film actress, and one of the most fashionable stars of the silent movie era. ... Louise Brooks. ... // Town in the novels of E F Benson Tilling is a fictional coastal town, based precisely on Rye, East Sussex, in the Mapp and Lucia novels of Edward Frederic Benson (1867-1940). ... Edward Frederic Benson (July 24, 1867 – February 29, 1940) was an English novelist, biographer, memoirist and short story writer, known professionally as E.F. Benson. ... Cover of the DVD of the TV series Mapp and Lucia is a collective name for a series of novels by E. F. Benson, and is also the name of a television series based on those novels. ...


Trousers for women, sometimes worn mannishly as an expression of sexuality (as by Marlene Dietrich in the 1930 film, Morocco) became popular in the 1920s and 30s, as did aspects of what many years later would sometimes be referred to as "shabby chic". As early as 1907 the American heiress Natalie Barney (1875-1972) was leading like-minded women in sapphic dances in her Parisian garden (see Diana Souhami (2004) Wild Girls), photographs of which look little different to scenes at Woodstock in 1969 and other “pop” festivals of the late 1960s and early 70s. Marlene Dietrich in the 1930s Marlene Dietrich (December 27, 1901 – May 6, 1992) was a German-born actress, entertainer and singer. ... Shabby chic is a design style deliberately using worn and deteriorated items. ... Nathalie Barney (1876-1972), also known as Natalie Barney, was a American heiress who became well known as the mistress of a literary salon in France. ... This article is about homosexual women, not inhabitants of the Greek island of Lesbos A lesbian (lowercase L) is a homosexual woman. ... Woodstock may refer to: Woodstock Music and Art Festival, a 1969 U.S. rock festival which inspired a 1970 Warner Bros. ...


Post-Liberation Paris

After the Second World War Christian Dior's "New Look", launched in Paris in 1947, set the pattern for women's fashion generally until the 1960s. However, in the same year, Samedi-Soir lifted the lid on what it called the "troglodytes of Saint-Germain" (3 May 1947), namely Bohemians of the Parisian district of Saint-Germain-des-Près, who appeared to cluster around the existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre and included Roger Vadim (whose launched the career of actress Brigitte Bardot in the 1950s) and the singer Juliette Gréco. Their clothes were predominantly black: when Gréco first performed outside Saint-Germain she affronted some of her audience by wearing "black trousers, her bare feet slipped into golden sandals" (Anthony Beevor & Artemis Cooper (1994) Paris After the Liberation). Mushroom cloud from the nuclear explosion over Nagasaki rising 18 km into the air. ... Dior Logo Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 – October 24, 1957), was an influential French fashion designer. ... The New Look was the name given to the womens clothing fashions introduced by Parisian fashion designer Christian Dior in the spring of 1947. ... The term troglodyte can refer to the following: In archaeology, troglodyte can mean a member of a primitive tribe of cave-dwelling people (from the Greek Troglodytai, from trogle, a hole and dyein, to enter). Derived from that term, troglodytes are cave-dwelling humanoid monsters in fantasy games such as... Existentialism is a philosophical movement emphasizing individualism, individual freedom, and subjectivity. ... Jean-Paul Charles Aymard Sartre (June 21, 1905 – April 15, 1980), normally known simply as Jean-Paul Sartre (pronounced: ), was a French existentialist philosopher, dramatist and screenwriter, novelist and critic. ... Roger Vadim (born Roger Vladimir Plemiannikov, Paris, France, January 26, 1928; died February 11, 2000), was a journalist, author, actor, screenwriter, director, and producer who launched Brigitte Bardots career in the film And God Created Woman. ... Brigitte Bardot, circa 1970. ... Juliette Gréco (born February 7, 1927) is a French actress as well as a very popular chanson singer. ...


America: the beat generation and flower power

In the United States adherents of the "beat" counter-culture (probably best defined by Jack Kerouac's novel, On the Road, set in the late 1940s, written in 1952 and published in 1957) were associated with black polo-neck sweaters, blue denim jeans and sandals. The influence of this movement could be seen in the persona and songs of Bob Dylan in the 1960s, "road" films like Easy Rider (1969) and the punk-orientated "New Wave" of the mid 1970s, which, among other things, produced a boho style icon in Deborah Harry of the New York band Blondie. The term Beat Generation refers primarily to a group of American writers of the 1950s. ... Jack Kerouac (pronounced ) (March 12, 1922 – October 21, 1969) was an American novelist, writer, poet, artist, and part of the Beat Generation. ... On the Road book cover On the Road is a novel by Jack Kerouac, published by Viking Press in 1957. ... Denim as used for blue jeans, with a copper rivet to strengthen a pocket. ... Blue Jeans The backpocket of a pair of Evisu jeans. ... To meet Wikipedias quality standards, this article or section may require cleanup. ... Easy Rider is a 1969 road movie, written by Peter Fonda, Dennis Hopper and Terry Southern. ... Punk rock is an anti-establishment music movement beginning around 1976 (although precursors can be found several years earlier), exemplified and popularised by The Ramones, the Sex Pistols, The Clash and The Damned. ... Debbie Harry on the cover of her collection Most of All: Best Of Deborah Harry (born July 1, 1945) is a Miami-born American rock and roll musician who originally gained fame as the frontwoman for New Wave band Blondie, which originated in the late 1970s and achieved commercial success... Blondie is an American rock band that first gained fame in the late 1970s and early 1980s. ...


The "beatniks" (as they came to be known by the late 1950s) were, in many ways, the antecedents of the hippie movement that formed on the West Coast of the USA in the mid 1960s and came to the fore as the first post-war baby-boomers reached the age of majority in the so-called "Summer of Love" of 1967. The Monterey pop festival was a major landmark of a year associated with "flowerpower", psychedelia, opposition to the Vietnam war and the inventive music and flowing, colourful fashions of, among others, Jimi Hendrix, the Mamas and Papas, Jefferson Airplane and the British group, the Beatles, whose album, Sergeant Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band, is said to have caused the guru of psychedelia, Timothy Leary, to remark that "my work is finished" (see The New Yorker, 26 June 2006). A baby boom is defined as a period of increased birth rates relative to surrounding generations. ... The Summer of Love is a phrase given to the summer of 1967 to try to describe the feeling of being in San Francisco that summer, when the so-called hippie movement came to full fruition. ... Poster promoting the festival The Monterey International Pop Music Festival took place from June 16 to June 18, 1967. ... A bus covered with Hippie slogans and flowers Flower power was a slogan used by hippies in the late 1960s and early 1970s as a symbol of the non-violence ideology. ... Psychedelia is a term describing a category of music, visual art, fashion, and culture that is associated originally with the high 1960s, hippies, and the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco, California. ... Combatants Republic of Vietnam United States Republic of Korea Thailand Australia New Zealand The Philippines Democratic Republic of Vietnam National Front for the Liberation of South Vietnam People’s Republic of China Commanders William Westmoreland Ho Chi Minh Strength ~1,200,000 (1968) ~520,000 (1968) Casualties South Vietnamese dead... James Marshall Jimi Hendrix (November 27, 1942 – September 18, 1970) was an American musician, singer, songwriter, guitarist, innovator, and cultural icon. ... The Mamas & the Papas were a leading vocal group of the 1960s, and one of the few American groups to maintain widespread success during the British Invasion, along with The Beach Boys. ... Jefferson Airplane was an American rock band from San Francisco, a pioneer of the LSD-influenced psychedelic rock movement. ... The Beatles appeared on The Ed Sullivan Show in 1964 as part of their first tour of the United States, promoting their first hit single there, I Want To Hold Your Hand. ... Sgt. ... For the American baseball player use Tim Leary (baseball player) Timothy Francis Leary, Ph. ...


London in the 1950s

Although the annual Saturday Book (vol 16, 1956) recorded a view that "London's now nothing but flash coffee bars, with teddies and little bits of girls in jeans", the "Edwardian" ("teddy boy") look of the early to mid 1950s did not coincide with Bohemian tastes. The Bohemian foci during this period were the jazz clubs and espresso bars of Soho and Fitzrovia. Their habitués usually wore polo necks; in the words of one social historian, “thousands of pale, duffel-coat-clad students were hunched in coffee bars over their copies of Jean-Paul Sartre and Jack Kerouac” (Dominic Sandbrook (2005) Never Had It So Good). The Teddy Boy youth culture first emerged in Britain during the early 1950s, and was strongly associated with American rock and roll music of the period. ... Soho is an area of central Londons West End in the borough the City of Westminster. ... Fitzrovia is a small district in central London. ...


The image was more a male, than a female, one (the same being true of the literary phenomenon of the so-called "Angry Young Men" from 1956 onwards). Some Bohemian women adopted the "gamine look", with its black jersies and short, almost boyish hairstyles associated with the film actresses Audrey Hepburn (Sabrina, 1954) and Jean Seberg (A bout de souffle, 1960); others, the lower-cut, tighter styles of Continental stars such as Bardot or Gina Lollobrigida. In Iris Murdoch's novel, The Bell (1958), an art student named Dora Greenfield bought "big multi-coloured skirts and jazz records and sandals". Angry Young Men (or Angries for short) is a journalistic catchphrase applied to a number of British playwrights and novelists from the mid-1950s. ... This page is a candidate to be copied to Wiktionary. ... Audrey Hepburn (May 4, 1929 – January 20, 1993) was an iconic Academy Award-winning actress, fashion model and humanitarian. ... Sabrina is a 1954 film directed by Billy Wilder, adapted for the screen by Wilder, Samuel Taylor, and Ernest Lehman from Taylors play Sabrina Fair (in the UK, the movie has the title Sabrina Fair). ... Jean Seberg (November 13, 1938 – September 8, 1979) was an American actress who spent an important part of her career in France. ... To meet Wikipedias quality standards, this article or section may require cleanup. ... Gina Lollobrigida (born on July 4, 1927) is an Italian actress who was born Luigina Lollobrigida in Subiaco, Italy in the Lazioregion. ... Dame Iris Murdoch Dame Jean Iris Murdoch DBE (July 15, 1919 – February 8, 1999) was an Irish born British writer and philosopher, best known for her novels, which combine rich characterization and compelling plotlines, usually involving ethical or sexual themes. ...


Hamburg and Beatlemania

In 1960, when the Beatles (then an obscure Liverpudlian combo with five, as opposed to their eventual "fab" four, members) were working in Hamburg, West Germany, they were influenced by a Bohemian "art school" set known as Exis (for "existentialists"). The Exis were roughly equivalent to what in France became known as les beats and included photographer Astrid Kirchherr (for whom the "fifth Beatle" Stuart Sutcliffe left the group) and artist and musician Klaus Voormann (who designed the cover for the Beatles' album Revolver in 1966). As a result the Beatles acquired black leather jackets and fringed hairstyles that were the prototypes of the "mop-top" cuts associated with "Beatlemania" in 1963-4 (see, e.g., Sandbrook, op.cit.). The latter coincided with the revival of the bobbed style for women (as adopted, for example, by singers Cilla Black and Bille Davis and fashion designers Mary Quant and Jean Muir). This article is about the city in England. ... Hamburgs motto: May the posterity endeavour with dignity to conserve the freedom, which the forefathers acquired. ... Exy, or Exi was the nickname used by many of the Hamburg fans of the Beatles during the earliest years of their career. ... Astrid Kirchherr (b. ... The Beatles were John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr. ... Stuart Fergusson Victor Sutcliffe (June 23, 1940 – April 10, 1962) was an artist who, until his sudden death, worked in a style related to Abstract Expressionism. ... Klaus Voormann (born April 29, 1942) is a German artist, musician, and record producer who was associated with the early days of The Beatles in Hamburg and later designed the cover of their album Revolver. ... For the album by The Haunted, see rEVOLVEr. ... Particular hairstyles occasionally become fashionable through their association with a prominent individual. ... The Beatles, each sporting the eponymous hairstyle The Beatle haircut, also known as the mop-top (for its resemblance to a mop) is a mid-length hairstyle named for and popularized by the British rock group the Beatles. ... The Beatles arrival at Americas JFK Airport in 1964 has proved a particularly enduring image of Beatlemania. ... Cover of Cilla Blacks 1966 album Cilla Sings a Rainbow. ... Mary Quant OBE FCSD (born February 11, 1934) is a British fashion designer, one of the many designers who took credit for inventing the miniskirt and hot pants. ... Jean Elizabeth Muir (1928-1995) was an English fashion designer. ...


Swinging London

By the mid 1960s, British pop music had stimulated the fashion boom of what Time (15 April 1966) called “swinging London”. Associated initially with such "mod" designs as Quant’s mini-skirt, this soon embraced a range of essentially Bohemian styles. These included the military and Victorian fashions popularised by stars who frequented boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip, which opened in the King's Road, Chelsea in January 1966 (see Times Magazine, 24 June 2006) and, by 1967, the hippie look imported from America. This fusion of influences was discernible in two black-and-white productions for BBC televison in 1966: the series Adam Adamant Lives!, starring Gerald Harper as an Edwardian adventurer cryopreserved in time and Juliet Harmer as a stylish "mod" who befriended him, and Jonathan Miller's dreamy, rather Gothic production of Lewis Carroll's mid-Victorian children's fantasy Alice in Wonderland. (Sydney Newman, the BBC's Head of Television Drama in the 1960s, reflected of Adam Adamant that "[they] could never quite get [the] Victorian mentality to contrast with the '60s", thereby confirming the aspiration: see Andrew Pixley (2006) DVD viewing notes for Adam Adamant Lives!) In Britain, this was probably the first era of “boho-chic” as a popular style. Mod (or, to use its full name, Modernism or sometimes Modism) was a youth lifestyle based around fashion and music that developed in London, England in the late 1950s and reached its peak in the early to mid 1960s. ... The miniskirt is a skirt whose hemline is a ways above the knees (generally from ten to twenty centimetres above knee-level). ... Kings Road may mean: Kings Road, Hong Kong Kings Road, Singapore Kings Road, Chelsea, London, United Kingdom This article consisting of geographical locations is a disambiguation page, a list of pages that otherwise might share the same title. ... Statue of Thomas More on Cheyne Walk. ... Founded in 1922 as the British Broadcasting Company Ltd (a privately owned company), subsequently Incorporated and nationalised in 1927 as The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC, also informally known as the Beeb or Auntie) is the largest broadcasting corporation in the world. ... Adam Adamant Lives! on the cover of Radio Times magazine. ... Gerald Harper (born 15 February 1929 in London, England) is an actor, best known for his work on television, having played the title role in both Adam Adamant Lives! and Hadleigh. ... Cryopreservation of plant shoots. ... Sir Jonathan Wolfe Miller, CBE (born July 21, 1934) is a British physician, theatre and opera director and television presenter. ... NYC goth band The Naked and the Dead (1985). ... Lewis Carroll. ... Alice in Wonderland is the widely known and used title for Alices Adventures in Wonderland, a book written by Lewis Carroll -- as well as several movie adaptations of the book -- and is also the setting for several short stories. ... Sydney Cecil Newman OC (April 1, 1917—October 30, 1997) was a Canadian film and television producer, best remembered for the pioneering work he undertook in British television drama from the late 1950s to the late 1960s. ...


Beyond the 1960s: hippie chic and boho-chic

Main article: Boho-chic

Journalist Bob Stanley remarked that "the late 1960s are never entirely out of fashion, they just need a fresh angle to make them de jour" (The Times Knowledge, 24 June 2006). Thus, the features of hippie fashion re-emerged at various stages during the ensuing forty years. Boho-chic was a style of female fashion (c. ...


In the mid to late 1980s variants of the short and fundamentally un-Bohemian rah-rah skirt were combined with leather or demin to create a look with some Bohemian features. In the 1990s the term, "hippie chic", was applied to Tom Ford’s collections for the Italian house of Gucci. These drew on, among other influences, the style, popular in retrospect, of Talitha Getty (d.1971), actress wife of John Paul Getty and step-granddaughter of Dorelia McNeil, who was represented most famously in a photograph of her and her husband taken by Patrick Lichfield in Marrakesh, Morocco in 1969. Chic is a French word, established in English since at least the 1870s, that has come to mean smart or stylish. ... Tom Ford poses with Scarlett Johansson and Keira Knightley on the February, 2006 cover of Vanity Fair. ... Gucci, or the House of Gucci, is an Italian fashion and leather goods label. ... Sir John Paul Getty (September 7, 1932 – April 17, 2003) was a wealthy American-born British philanthropist and book-collector. ... Thomas Patrick Anson, the 5th Earl of Lichfield (born April 25, 1939), better known as Patrick Lichfield, is a British photographer and a first cousin once removed of Queen Elizabeth II, his mother Anne Bowes-Lyon (1917 - 1980) having been a niece of the late Queen Mother. ... Marrakech (مراكش marrākish), known as the Pearl of the South, is a city in southwestern Morocco in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. ...


In the early 21st century "boho-chic" was associated intially with supermodel Kate Moss and then, as a highly popular style in 2004-5, with actress Sienna Miller. In America similar styles were sometimes referred to as "bobo-" or "ashcan chic", their leading proponents including actresses Mary-Kate Olsen and Lindsay Lohan. Brazillian supermodel Gisele Bundchen. ... To meet Wikipedias quality standards, this article or section may require cleanup. ... Sienna Rose Miller (born December 28, 1981) is an American-born English actress and model. ... Bobos in Paradise was a book written by David Brooks in 2000. ... Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Fuller Olsen (born June 13, 1986) are twin American actresses who have appeared in television and films since the age of 3 months. ... Lindsay Dee Lohan[1] (born July 2, 1986), known professionally as Lindsay Morgan Lohan, is an American actress and pop music singer. ...



 
 

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