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The American Safe Climbing Association (6165 words) |
 | When you're using a power drill or bolting by hand on rappel there's no excuse for placing a flimsy bolt, and at a minimum you should use a 3/8inch by 2 1/2inch bolt in hard rock, 3/8inch by 3 1/2inches in medium rock, and a 1/2inch by 4 1/2inch glue-in bolt in soft rock. |
| Climbing bolts should be strong, durable, easy to place, corrosion resistant, have some leeway for user error, and be removable so you can replace them. |
| We also tested these bolts in soft rock, but their expansion cones, being slightly larger than the drilled hole, sheared away the inside of the hole as the bolt was tapped in, causing the bolt to spin when we attempted to tighten it down. |
| Flatliners Southeast Climbing FAQ's - Frequently Asked Questions - Sport Climbing (926 words) |
| A: Sport climbing describes climbing where the anchors (typically bolts) are already placed in the rock prior to climbing it. |
| A mechanically secured bolt is one where tightening it causes the shaft to expand in the hole, the most common means of securing. |
| A: Having bolts on a climb gives a climber confidence that the anchors he uses are sound. |
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