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Encyclopedia > Bustle
Bustle apparatus (1881)

A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress, occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. Thus, a woman's petticoated or crinolined skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear (from merely sitting down or moving about). The word "bustle" has become synonymous with the fashion to which the bustle was integral. Image File history File links No higher resolution available. ... Image File history File links No higher resolution available. ... In English, bustle usually refers to a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a womans dress, popular during the mid- to late 1800s. ... Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres depicts the Comtesse dHaussonville, wearing a dress. ... Madame de Pompadour in an elaborately embroidered gown with matching petticoat, 1760s A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing for women; specifically an undergarment to be worn under a skirt, dress or sari. ...

Contents

History

Transition from crinoline (1867-1872)

A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867
A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867

As the fashion for crinolines wore on, their shape changed. Instead of the large bell-like silhouette previously in vogue, they began to flatten out at the front and sides, creating more fullness at the back of the skirts. One type of crinoline, the crinolette, created a shape very similar to the one produced by a bustle. The excess skirt fabric created by this alteration in shape was looped around to the back, again creating increased fullness. Image File history File links Size of this preview: 433 × 599 pixelsFull resolution (1350 × 1869 pixel, file size: 48 KB, MIME type: image/gif) se also U.S. patent 63,234 File historyClick on a date/time to view the file as it appeared at that time. ... Image File history File links Size of this preview: 433 × 599 pixelsFull resolution (1350 × 1869 pixel, file size: 48 KB, MIME type: image/gif) se also U.S. patent 63,234 File historyClick on a date/time to view the file as it appeared at that time. ... crinoline patented Cutaway view of a crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856 Sequence of posed joke photographs of five stages of putting on a crinoline, ca. ...


Early bustle (1869 - 1876)

The bustle later developed into a feature of fashion on its own after the overskirt of the late 1860s was draped up toward the back and some kind of support was needed for the new draped shape. Fullness of some sort was still considered necessary to make the waist look smaller and the bustle eventually replaced the crinoline completely. The bustle was worn in different shapes for most of the 1870s and 1880s, with a short period of non-bustled, flat-backed dresses from 1878 to 1882.


In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried quite low and often fanned out to create a train. The transition from the voluminous crinoline enhanced skirts of the 1850s and 1860s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and trimmings worn during this period. The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts falling quite sharply to the floor.


Late bustle (1881 - 1887)

It reappeared in late 1881,[1] and was exaggerated to become a major fashion feature in the mid-1880s, and ended in December 1887.[2]


1888-1913

It then survived into the 1890s and early 1900s as a skirt support was still needed and the stylish shape dictated a curve in the back of the skirt to balance the curve of the bust in front. The bustle had completely disappeared by 1905, as the long corset of the early twentieth century was now successful in shaping the body to protrude behind. A luxury hourglass corset from 1878. ...


Fashion

The bustle was a typically Victorian fashion. Although most bustle gowns covered nearly all of a woman, the shape created by the combination of a bustle and corset (accentuating the rump, waist, and bosom) resulted in a highly erotic and idealized conception of femininity, possibly inspired by the exaggerated images of the South African woman known as "Hottentot Venus" exhibited throughout Europe in the first part of the 19th century. Windsor Castle in Modern Times by Landseer depicts the Queen and the Prince Consort at home in the 1840s. ... A luxury hourglass corset from 1878. ... Saartjie Baartman (1789-1815) was the most famous of at least two Hottentot women who were exhibited as sideshow attractions in 19th century Europe under the name Hottentot Venus . ...


Bustles and bustle gowns are rarely worn in contemporary society. Notable exceptions occur in the realm of haute couture and bridal fashion. A dress in the bustle style may be worn as a costume. For example, in 1993 Eiko Ishioka won an Academy Award for her costume designs from Bram Stoker's Dracula. The film features several extravagant bustle gowns created for female leads Winona Ryder and Sadie Frost. Haute couture (French for high sewing or high dressmaking; IPA: ) refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted fashions. ... For other uses, see Wedding dress (disambiguation). ... Academy Award The Academy Awards, popularly known as the Oscars, are the most prominent and most watched film awards ceremony in the world. ... Bram Stokers Dracula is a 1992 horror romance film produced and directed by Francis Ford Coppola, based on the novel Dracula by Bram Stoker. ... Winona Ryder (born October 29, 1971) is a two-time Academy Award-nominated and Golden Globe-winning American actress. ... This article or section does not cite any references or sources. ...


Gallery

References

  1. ^ Punch; December 6; 1881
  2. ^ Corset and Crinolines, Norah Waugh, page 127f

See also

Wikimedia Commons has media related to:

  Results from FactBites:
 
Bustle.eu (752 words)
There are two types of bustles, one worn by women and found predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s, and a second type of bustle worn by Native American men as a part of the male dancer's regalia.
Although most bustle gowns covered nearly all of a woman, the shape created by the combination of a bustle and corset (accentuating the rump, waist, and bosom) resulted in a highly erotic and idealized conception of femininity.
The Native American bustle is a traditional part of a man's regalia worn during a dance exhibition or wachipi (pow wow) and originates from the Plains region of the United States.
History of 1870s Bustles (600 words)
Bustles, worn off and on between 1790 and 1890, were one of the many foundation garments used by fashionable 19th-century ladies to modify their figures into the latest style.
At first women wore bustles built into petticoats or small hoop skirts, but by 1871 the majority of bustles were separate from the crinoline and came in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials.
This bustle probably lasted for so long because of its adjustability, specifically its ability to lay flat in a drawer, be worn deep for earlier fashions, or worn shallow for later styles.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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