The alpine butterfly knot, also known as the Lineman's loop or simply Butterfly knot, is a "non-jamming loop on the bight", a loop which may be tied in a rope with two fixed ends, and can take strain from both ends of the original rope, and from the loop.
The Alpine butterfly knot is used by mountaineers to attach climbers to the middle of a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope. The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by karabiner
It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is used for the centre of the loop.
Alpine butterfly knot step_by_step
Advantages
Does not reduce the strength of the rope by very much
Will not slip (after initial settling)
Allows for the knot to be loaded three ways (each end of the main line and by the loop)
Relatively easy to undo after loading (more difficult if wet)
Disadvantages
Difficult to tie one_handed
Requires some training/practice to master
If tied using some methods there is a potential to trap the hand if the line is loaded unexpectedly
Of course, the Double-butterfly knot is a variation of the Single Butterflyknot, well-know and well-used for several important reasons:.
The life-cycle of a butterfly (and moth for that matter) is a remarkable series of changes between seemingly very different forms culminating in the emergence of a butterfly.