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Encyclopedia > Butterfly knot
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Alpine butterfly knot

The alpine butterfly knot, also known as the Lineman's loop or simply Butterfly knot, is a "non-jamming loop on the bight", a loop which may be tied in a rope with two fixed ends, and can take strain from both ends of the original rope, and from the loop.

Contents

Usage

The Alpine butterfly knot is used by mountaineers to attach climbers to the middle of a rope, such that they have room to move around even when the main rope goes tight, and they can be supported in either direction from the main rope. The loop is typically attached to a climbing harness by karabiner


It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is used for the centre of the loop.



Alpine butterfly knot step_by_step

Advantages

  • Does not reduce the strength of the rope by very much
  • Will not slip (after initial settling)
  • Allows for the knot to be loaded three ways (each end of the main line and by the loop)
  • Relatively easy to undo after loading (more difficult if wet)

Disadvantages

  • Difficult to tie one_handed
  • Requires some training/practice to master
  • If tied using some methods there is a potential to trap the hand if the line is loaded unexpectedly

See also

External Link

  • Geocities page on the knot (http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/butterflyloop.html)



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