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Encyclopedia > Campus board
 A typical campus board at a rock climbing training facility
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A typical campus board at a rock climbing training facility

The Campus Board is a Rock Climbing training tool, usually made from thin slats of wood attached to a board in a ladderlike fashion, then hung at a less than vertical angle (around 20 degrees) somewhere with plenty of leg room. Climbers ascend and descend the board using only their hands, alternating the use of fingers to develop finger and upper-body strength. The implement was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 to help him train for a new route, Action Directe, which required extreme dynamic finger strength. The board was first hung at a University in a gym called The Campus Centre, hence the name of the board and the style of climbing which requires arms only. Climbers on Valkyrie at the Roaches. ... Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 - 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany. ... 1988 (MCMLXXXVIII) was a leap year starting on Friday of the Gregorian calendar. ... Action Directe can mean: the 1970s and 1980s French guerrilla group Action Directe; the rock climb Action Directe. ...


Training on a campus board results in better performance due to the improvement of motor training, finger strength on various grips, power and lock-off strength. It is recommended only for climbers who are already strong, as it can easily cause injury. A general test can be the ability to boulder atleast V5, or climb atleast french 6c.


External links

  • Metolius Campus Board Information

  Results from FactBites:
 
How to Build a Campus Board (597 words)
The campus board should be constructed with 2X4 framing with the studs 16" apart.
Cut the ceiling header at the same angle as the campus board.
Shake the board and watch the joints and anchor points.  It is important to control the humidity.
Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: has anybody made a campus board in 8ft' room (1059 words)
A cousin of mine simply bolted a board to his ceiling and put a bunch of holds on it.
I think he's talking about a campus board (spaced wooden rungs), not a collection of holds to campus on.
I have 8 large campus rungs spaced 6" apart (2X2's from lowes, typically run about an inch and a half by an inch and a half) and 11 small rungs spaced 4" apart (2 by 1's).
  More results at FactBites »


 

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