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Encyclopedia > Dai Koyamada

Dai Koyamada is a Japanese rock climber. Not only is he one of the premier boulderers of his generation, he has also put up or repeated hard sport climbs too. Climbers on Valkyrie at the Roaches. ... Boulderer in Fontainebleau, France Bouldering is climbing without a rope on large boulders to a height no higher than that from which a fall causes significant bodily harm. ... Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. ...

  • He was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima and has been climbing since 1993.
  • He is 165 cm and 58 kg.
  • In 1996, Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship. This is the event which allowed him to become a professional rock climber.
  • On 2001 November 27, Koyamada made the first ascent (FA) of Logical Progression (9a) in Joyama, Japan.
  • On 2002 November 01, Koyamada repeated Hugh (9a, FA by Fred Rouhling in 1993).
  • On 2003 November 11, Koyamada had the first ascent of Byaku-dou (White Road) in Hourai, Japan. Byaku-dou had been touted as a possible V16.
  • In 2004, Koyamada journeyed to Australia and repeated every problem at the Hollow Mountain Cave (HMC) in the Grampians, problems put up by Fred Nicole and Klem Loskot and some of Australia's top boulderers. He then proceeded to link-up the problems in the HMC for the first ascent (FA) of The Wheel of Life (V16/8C+) on 2004 May 12.
  • On 2004 Nov 09, Koyamada repeated Dreamtime.
  • On 2005 April 22, Koyamada had the first ascent of another possible V16/8C+, Hydrangea in Shiobara, Japan. He added a sit-start to his Hydra (V14/8B+, FA on 2004 December 20).
  • On 2005 15 October, Koyamada repeated Action Directe (9a) in the Frankenjura, Germany and proclaimed it harder than any other route that he has climbed.

In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... Fred Rouhling (born circa 1970) is a French rock climber, famed for his 1995 proposal of the grade 9b (5. ... In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are distinct from those used in regular climbing. ... The Pinnacle offers stunning views of the surrounding park, this photograph just one example. ... Fred Nicole is a Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous cutting edge first ascents. ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are distinct from those used in regular climbing. ... Dreamtime is a V15/8C boulder problem in Cresciano, Switzerland. ... Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb (9a, the Worlds first) in the Frankenjura, Germany. ...

External links

  • KOYAMADA Dai@daihold.com (Japanese)
  • The Way of the Weekend Warrior
  • The Wheel of Life
  • Action Directe

  Results from FactBites:
 
Another V16 for Koyamada? (110 words)
The Japanese Dai Koyamada has established another long boulder problem that may be harder than V15, according to www.8a.nu.
Koyamada added a six-move, V11/12 sit start to his existing problem Hydra (V14) at Shiobara, Japan, to create Hydrangea (V15/16).
In its length, Hydrangea resembles Wheel of Life, the possible V16 that Koyamada established last spring in the Grampians of Australia—at 76 moves, this bouldering route really deserves a sport-climbing grade, and indeed Koyamada suggested 5.15a.
V16 in the Grampians of Australia (215 words)
Japan’s Dai Koyamada has completed a massive link-up at the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and rated it 8c+ (V16).
Koyamada called his big new link-up The Wheel of Life.
During his multiweek visit to the Grampians, Koyamada climbed just about every other hard boulder problem and traverse in the area and established several new ones.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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