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Encyclopedia > Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri I in October 2002
Elevation 8,167 metres (26,794 feet)
Ranked 7th
Location Dhawalagiri, Nepal
Range Dhaulagiri Himal
Prominence 3,357 m
Coordinates 28°41′47″N, 83°29′43″E
First ascent May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian team
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) is the seventh highest mountain in the world. It forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in the Dhawalagiri Zone of north central Nepal. It lies northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other eight-thousanders. Dhaulagiri means "White Mountain". Image File history File links Download high resolution version (768x1180, 485 KB) Dhaulagiri from Deutsche Wikipedia Dhaulagiri I Quelle: fotografiert im Oktober 2002 Fotograf: Kogo File links The following pages link to this file: Dhaulagiri Gallery of mountains ... A topographical summit is a point on a surface which is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. ... Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station. ... Dhawalagiri(Dhaulagiri) is one of the fourteen zones of Nepal. ... The Himalaya as seen from the International Space Station A mountain range is a group of mountains bordered by lowlands or separated from other mountain ranges by passes or rivers. ... Perspective view of the Himalaya and Mount Everest as seen from space looking south-south-east from over the Tibetan Plateau. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height or shoulder drop (in America) or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains, also known as peaks. ... Map of Earth showing lines of latitude (horizontally) and longitude (vertically), Eckert VI projection; large version (pdf, 1. ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... is the 133rd day of the year (134th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1960 (MCMLX) was a leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Southern and northern Mount Everest climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. ... Lyskamm, 4 527 m, Pennine Alps Blue Ridge Mountains in Shenandoah national park, Virginia A mountain is a landform that extends above the surrounding terrain in a limited area. ... The Himalaya as seen from the International Space Station A mountain range is a group of mountains bordered by lowlands or separated from other mountain ranges by passes or rivers. ... Perspective view of the Himalaya and Mount Everest as seen from space looking south-south-east from over the Tibetan Plateau. ... Dhawalagiri(Dhaulagiri) is one of the fourteen zones of Nepal. ... View of Pokhara looking north from the nearby World Peace Stupa. ... The Kali Gandaki Gorge is located in Nepal, and is the deepest-known gorge in the world. ... Annapurna (Sanskrit, Nepali, Nepal Bhasa: अन्नपूर्ण) is a series of peaks in the Himalaya, a 55-km-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 8,091 m (26,538 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 eight-thousanders. It is located... Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station. ...


Notable Features

After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. This lasted for 30 years before Dhaulagiri's place was taken by Kangchenjunga. Year 1808 (MDCCCVIII) was a leap year starting on Friday (link will display the full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar (or a leap year starting on Wednesday of the 12-day slower Julian calendar). ... This article or section does not cite any references or sources. ... This article includes a list of works cited or a list of external links, but its sources remain unclear because it lacks in-text citations. ...

Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill
Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill

In terms of rise above local terrain, Dhaulagiri is, in fact, almost unparalleled in the world. For example, it rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The Kali Gandaki is especially dramatic since Dhaulagiri and Annapurna both stand near the river, giving a unique example of two Eight-thousanders facing each other over a deep valley. This is a file from the Wikimedia Commons, a repository of free content hosted by the Wikimedia Foundation. ... This is a file from the Wikimedia Commons, a repository of free content hosted by the Wikimedia Foundation. ... Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station. ...


The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri both feature massive drops; each rises over 4000 meters from its base, and each has been the site of epic climbs (see the Timeline).


Among the subsidiary peaks in the range, Gurja Himal also boasts a large, precipitous drop on its south face.


Climbing History

Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route which had been reconnoitered one year earlier by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft. The aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain. is the 133rd day of the year (134th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1960 (MCMLX) was a leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. ... Fritz Moravec 1985 Fritz Moravec (* April 27, 1922 in Vienna, Austria, † 17. ... The Pilatus PC-6 Porter (sometimes nicknamed the Jeep of the air) is a civilian utility aitcraft built by Pilatus Aircraft of Switzerland. ...


The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the mountain. However ascents have been made from almost every direction.

Dhaulagiri Range from Poon Hill
Dhaulagiri Range from Poon Hill

Image File history File links Metadata No higher resolution available. ... Image File history File links Metadata No higher resolution available. ...

Partial Timeline

(All items are about Dhaulagiri I except where noted.)

  • 1950 The peak is reconnoitered by the French, led by Maurice Herzog; however they do not see a feasible route and switch their objective to Annapurna, where they succeed in making the first ascent of an 8000 m peak.
  • 1953-1958 Five expeditions attempt the North Face, or "Pear Buttress", route.
  • 1954 J. O. M. Roberts and Sherpa Ang Nyima climb Putha Hiunchuli (the first successful major summit ascent in the range).
  • 1959 An Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec makes the first attempt on the Northeast Ridge, which will become the first ascent route the following year.
  • 1960 The first ascent, detailed above.
  • 1969 Americans, led by Boyd Everett, attempt the Southeast Ridge; seven team members, including Everett, are killed.
  • 1970 The second ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first-ascent route, by a Japanese expedition led by Tokufu Ohta and Shoji Imanari. Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing reach the summit on October 20.[1]
  • 1973 An American team led by James Morrissey makes the third ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first ascent route (Northeast Ridge). Summit team: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, Nawang Samden.
  • 1975 A Japanese team led by Takashi Amemiya attempts the Southwest Ridge (also known as the South Pillar). Six people are killed in an avalanche.
  • 1976 An Italian expedition makes the fourth ascent of the peak.
  • 1977 An international team led by Reinhold Messner attempts the South Face.
  • 1978, Spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition which puts five members on the summit via the Southwest Ridge; this is the first ascent not to use the Northeast Ridge. One team member is killed during the ascent.
  • 1978, Autumn: Seiko Tanaka of Japan leads an expedition which successfully climbs the very difficult Southeast Ridge. Four team members are killed during the ascent. Also, a French team attempts the Southwest Buttress (also called the South Buttress), but reaches only 7200m.
  • 1979 A Japanese expedition climbs Dhaulagiri II via the east ridge and Dhaulagiri V via the south ridge. They place camps on the summits of both peaks, and members of the expedition make traverses along the 4 km (2.4 mi) intervening ridge (which is everywhere above 7,150 m) in both directions. This expedition was also notable for being led by a woman, Michiko Takahashi.
  • 1981 A Yugoslavian team reach 7,950 m after putting up the first route on the true South Face of the mountain, on the right side, connecting with the Southeast Ridge. They climbed in alpine style, but suffered four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before returning. Also, Hironobu Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the normal route.
  • 1984 Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (J. Simon, K. Jakes, J. Stejskal) reached the summit via the monumental west face of the mountain. J. Simon died during the descent.
  • 1985 A Polish expedition including the famed Jerzy Kukuczka climbs Dhaulagiri, via the standard route, in winter: they reach the summit on January 21.
  • 1986 A mostly Polish expedition puts up the second South Face route, on the left side of the face, connecting with the Southwest Ridge route. They go above 7500 m but do not reach the summit.
  • 1993 A Russian-British team puts up the Direct North Face Route.
  • 1998 On May 16, Chantal Mauduit, an accomplished French climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri.
  • 1999 On October 24 Ginette Harrison, an accomplished British climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri. Days later, the Slovenian Tomaz Humar climbs the huge, steep South Face solo, but does not reach the true summit of the peak.

Year 1950 (MCML) was a common year starting on Sunday (link will display the full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Maurice Herzog (born 15 January 1919 in Lyon) is a French climber and politician. ... Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station. ... Year 1953 (MCMLIII) was a common year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1954 (MCMLIV) was a common year (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... See at the bottom of this page for other meanings of the word Sherpa. ... Year 1959 (MCMLIX) was a common year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Fritz Moravec 1985 Fritz Moravec (* April 27, 1922 in Vienna, Austria, † 17. ... Year 1960 (MCMLX) was a leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Also: 1969 (Stargate SG-1) episode. ... 1970 (MCMLXX) was a common year starting on Thursday. ... Year 1973 (MCMLXXIII) was a common year starting on Monday (link will display full calendar) of the 1973 Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1975 (MCMLXXV) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1976 Pick up sticks(MCMLXXVI) was a leap year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Also: 1977 (album) by Ash. ... Year 1978 (MCMLXXVIII) was a common year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1978 Gregorian calendar). ... Year 1978 (MCMLXXVIII) was a common year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1978 Gregorian calendar). ... Also: 1979 by Smashing Pumpkins. ... Year 1981 (MCMLXXXI) was a common year starting on Thursday (link displays the 1981 Gregorian calendar). ... Year 1984 (MCMLXXXIV) was a leap year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1984 Gregorian calendar). ... Year 1985 (MCMLXXXV) was a common year starting on Tuesday (link displays 1985 Gregorian calendar). ... Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka(March 24, 1948 - October 24, 1989)- born in Katowice, Poland - Polish alpine and high - altitude climber. ... Year 1986 (MCMLXXXVI) was a common year starting on Wednesday (link displays 1986 Gregorian calendar). ... Year 1993 (MCMXCIII) was a common year starting on Friday (link will display full 1993 Gregorian calendar). ... Year 1998 (MCMXCVIII) was a common year starting on Thursday (link will display full 1998 Gregorian calendar). ... May 16 is the 136th day of the year (137th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Chantal Mauduit was a noted female French alpinist. ... Year 1999 (MCMXCIX) was a common year starting on Friday (link will display full 1999 Gregorian calendar). ... October 24 is the 297th day of the year (298th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Ginette Harrison (28 February 1958-24 October 1999) was a professional climber of British origin. ... Wikinews has related news: Slovenian alpinist in rescue on Nanga Parbat Tomaž Humar (born February 18, 1969 in Ljubljana) is a Slovenian mountaineer. ...

Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri Himal

The Dhaulagiri Himal contains the following named peaks over 7,000 m (22,966 ft)[2]

World
Rank
Mountain Height (m) Height (ft) Coordinates Prominence (m) First ascent
7 Dhaulagiri I 8,167 26,795 28°41′45″N, 83°29′36″E 3,357 1960
30 Dhaulagiri II 7,751 25,430 28°45′46″N, 83°23′14″E 2,396 1971
  Dhaulagiri III 7,715 25,311 28°45′16″N, 83°22′46″E 135 1973
  Dhaulagiri IV 7,661 25,135 28°44′10″N, 83°18′55″E 469 1969
  Dhaulagiri V 7,618 24,992 28°44′04″N, 83°21′56″E 340 1975
72 Churen Himal (Main) 7,385 24,229 28°44′06″N, 83°12′58″E 600 unknown‡
  Churen Himal (East) 7,371 24,229 28°44′33″N, 83°13′51″E 150 1970
  Churen Himal (West) 7,371 24,183 28°43′55″N, 83°12′45″E 70 1970
  Dhaulagiri VI 7,268 23,845 28°42′30″N, 83°16′32″E 485 1970
95 Putha Hiunchuli 7,246 23,773 28°44′50″N, 83°08′55″E 1,151 1954
  Gurja Himal 7,193 23,599 28°40′26″N, 83°16′37″E 500 1969

† In this list, only peaks above 7,200 m with more than 500 m (1,640 ft) of topographic prominence are ranked. Mount Everest, the worlds highest mountain The following is a list of the worlds 100+ highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height or shoulder drop (in America) or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains, also known as peaks. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height or shoulder drop (in America) or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains, also known as peaks. ... Mount Everest, the worlds highest mountain The following is a list of the worlds 100+ highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. ...


‡ The status of the three peaks of Churen Himal is unclear, and sources differ on their heights.[2][3][4] The coordinates, heights and prominence values above are derived from the Finnmap.[4] The first ascent data is from Neate[2], but it is unclear if the first ascent of Churen Himal East was actually an ascent of the highest of the three peaks, as Neate lists Churen Himal Central as a 7,320 m subpeak of Churen Himal East.


Most of these peaks lie along one high east-west ridge, lying to the west-northwest of Dhaulagiri I and separated from it by a deep col (the French col). In order from west to east, they are: Putha Hiunchuli, Churen Himal, D VI, D IV, D V, D III, D II. Gurja Himal lies south of Dhaulagiri VI, away from the main ridge.


Footnotes

  1. ^ American Alpine Journal, 1971, p. 438.
  2. ^ a b c Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks, Mountaineers Books, 1990, ISBN 0-89886-238-8
  3. ^ H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya," American Alpine Journal, 1985.
  4. ^ a b Finnmap (topographic map) of Dhaulagiri Himal

The American Alpine Journal is the yearly flagship publication of the American Alpine Club. ...

References

  • Koichiro Ohmori, Over the Himalaya. Cloudcap/The Mountaineers, 1994.
  • American Alpine Journal, 1974, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1986, 1987, 1994, 1999, 2000.
  • Himalayan Index

External links


  Results from FactBites:
 
Dhaulagiri - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (167 words)
Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and is located in the Annapurna mountain range of the Himalaya of north central Nepal.
After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri became known as the highest mountain in the world.
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji of a Swiss/Austrian expedition.
Risk Online: Dhaulagiri (8167 m), 1996 (2266 words)
Offended by such an indifference, Dhaulagiri aborted for a full decade all attempts to devirginate her, and it was the eighth expedition that succeeded at last.
However, Dhaulagiri looked unassailable to the French, and Herzog took the group away 30 kilometres eastward, to Annapurna, which was to become the first mountain over 8000m high conquered by man (on the figure Annapurna's group is seen from the west, from the altitude of 6600m on the Dhaulagiri slope, sunset).
Dhaulagiri could have fallen as early as 1954 when an Argentine team, only 170 m away from the summit, had to pull out because of extremely raging weather.
  More results at FactBites »

 

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