The unidentified tailor in Giovanni Battista Moroni's famous portrait of ca 1570 is in doublet and lined and stuffed ("bombasted") breeches.
A doublet is a man's snug-fitting buttoned jacket that was worn in medieval and Tudor times. Originally it was a mere stitched and quilted lining ("doubling"), worn under a hauberk or cuirass to prevent bruising and chafing. Then, like many other originally practical items in the history of men's wear, from the late 15th century onward it became elaborated enough to be seen on its own. In the early 1580s, Sir Philip Sidney, when governor of Flushing in the Low Countries, chose to be portrayed in his doublet, but still in a gorget, as if he were caught in the act of setting aside his armour to institute a civil government. (See portrait at Sir Philip Sidney.) Giovanni Battista Moroni, The Tailor Il sarto The two-dimensional work of art depicted in this image is in the public domain in the United States and in those countries with a copyright term of life of the author plus 100 years. ... Giovanni Battista Moroni, The Tailor Il sarto The two-dimensional work of art depicted in this image is in the public domain in the United States and in those countries with a copyright term of life of the author plus 100 years. ... Giovanni Battista Moroni (1520-1578) was an Italian mannerist painter, son of an architect, Andrea Moroni, born in Albino near Bergamo. ... Trousers are now acceptable clothing for men or women. ... The Middle Ages formed the middle period in a traditional schematic division of European history into three ages: the classical civilization of Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and modern times, beginning with the Renaissance. ... The Tudor dynasty or House of Tudor (Welsh Twdwr) is a series of five monarchs of Welsh origin who ruled England from 1485 until 1603. ... The hauberk is essentially a long shirt of mail or leather (weighing about 14 kg for the mail). ... Cuirass (French cuirasse, Latin coriaceus, made of leather, from corium, the original breastplate being of leather), the plate armour, whether formed of a single piece of metal or other rigid material or composed of two or more pieces, which covers the front of the wearers person. ... Sir Philip Sidney wears a gorget for a portrait A gorget is a type of armor designed to protect the neck. ... A hoplite wearing a helmet, a breastplate and greaves (and nothing else). ... Philip Sidney Sir Philip Sidney (November 30, 1554 - October 17, 1586) became one of the Elizabethan Ages most prominent figures. ...
The catalyst for the change in costume that marks the division between the early medieval period and the Romanesque period was the first of the Crusades, which began in 1095.
Later in the period, the hood, with its pointed end (the liripipe), and short shoulder cape, became a hat worn by putting the head into the hole originally intended for the face and wrapping the extended liripipe around the head in turban fashion.
The doublet developed into a fully tailored, frequently padded, garment, which in varying forms survived as the basic male outer garment through the middle of the 17th century.
Doublets of the 14th and 15th centuries were generally hip-length, sometimes, shorter, worn over the shirt and hose, with a houppeland or other form of overgown.
Charles I in the doublet and breeches fastened with points of 1629, by Daniel Mijtens the Elder.
The doublet fell permanently out of fashion in the mid-17th century when Louis XIV of France and Charles II of England established a court costume for men consisting of a long coat, a waistcoat, a cravat, a wig, and breeches—the ancestor of the modern suit.