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Encyclopedia > Farthingale
Tudor gown showing the line of the Spanish farthingale: portrait traditonally described as Jane Grey but possibly Catherine Parr, 1545.
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Tudor gown showing the line of the Spanish farthingale: portrait traditonally described as Jane Grey but possibly Catherine Parr, 1545.

Farthingale is a term applied to any of several structures used under Western European women's clothing in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries to support the skirts into the desired shape. Image File history File links Download high resolution version (400x780, 85 KB)Portrait long thought to be Jane Grey, now considered likely to be Catherine Parr, 1545, attributed to Master John, showing the Spanish Farthingale and trumpet sleeves of Tudor court fashion. ... Image File history File links Download high resolution version (400x780, 85 KB)Portrait long thought to be Jane Grey, now considered likely to be Catherine Parr, 1545, attributed to Master John, showing the Spanish Farthingale and trumpet sleeves of Tudor court fashion. ... Lady Jane Grey (October 12, 1537 – February 12, 1554), a great-granddaughter of Henry VII of England, was proclaimed Queen regnant of the Kingdom of England for nine days in 1553. ... The dignified Catherine Parr, the last of King Henry VIIIs wives. ... World map showing Europe Political map (neighbouring countries in Asia and Africa also shown) Europe is one of the seven traditional continents of the Earth. ... It has been suggested that folding clothes be merged into this article or section. ... (14th century - 15th century - 16th century - other centuries) As a means of recording the passage of time, the 15th century was that century which lasted from 1401 to 1500. ... (15th century - 16th century - 17th century - more centuries) As a means of recording the passage of time, the 16th century was that century which lasted from 1501 to 1600. ... A . ...

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Spanish farthingale

The Spanish farthingale was a hoop skirt stiffened with osiers (willow cuttings), rope, bent, or (from about 1580) whalebone. The name comes from Spanish verdugo 'green wood'. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a womens undergarment worn in various periods to hold the skirt extended into a fashionable shape. ... Species About 350, including: Salix acutifolia- Violet Willow Salix alaxensis- Alaska Willow Salix alba- White Willow Salix alpina- Alpine Willow Salix amygdaloides- Peachleaf Willow Salix arbuscula- Mountain Willow Salix arbusculoides- Littletree Willow Salix arctica- Arctic Willow Salix atrocinerea Salix aurita- Eared Willow Salix babylonica- Peking Willow Salix barrattiana- Barratts... Coils of rope used for long-line fishing A rope (IPA: ) is a length of fibers, twisted or braided together to improve strength for pulling and connecting. ... Species See text. ... Baleen hair is attached to the baleen plate Baleen (also called whalebone) is a substance made of keratin and is therefore stiff but somewhat elastic. ...


The earliest primary sources indicate that Princess Isabel of Portugal brought verdugadas with 14 hoops each with her to Spain on her marriage in the 1470s. The earliest images of Spanish farthingales show hoops prominently displayed on the outer surfaces of skirts, although later they merely provided shape to the overskirt. The Spanish princess Catherine of Aragon brought the fashion into England on her marriage to Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII in 1501. The recently-widowed young Catherine of Aragon, by Henry VIIs court painter, Michael Sittow, c. ... Arthur Tudor (20 September 1486 – 2 April 1502) was the eldest son of Henry VII of England. ... Henry VII (January 28, 1457 – April 21, 1509), King of England, Lord of Ireland (August 22, 1485 – April 21, 1509), was the founder and first patriarch of the Tudor dynasty. ...


Spanish farthingales were an essential element of Tudor fashion in England, and remained a fixture of conservative Spanish court fashion into the early seventeenth century (see Portrait of Queen Margaret of Austria, 1609). Allegory of the Tudor dynasty (detail), attributed to Lucas de Heere, ca 1572: left to right, Philip II of Spain, Mary, Henry VIII, Edward VI, Elizabeth The Tudor period usually refers to the historical period between 1485 and 1558, especially in relation to the history of England. ... Margaret of Austria, 1609, by Bartolomé González y Serrano Margaret of Austria (1584-1611), Queen of Spain and Portugal, was the daughter of the Archduke Charles II of Austria and Maria Anna of Bavaria, and the sister of the Emperor Ferdinand II. She married Philip III of Spain on...

Silhouette of the 1590s: Elizabeth I, the Ditchley portrait
Silhouette of the 1590s: Elizabeth I, the Ditchley portrait

Image File history File links Download high resolution version (500x791, 98 KB)Elizabeth I, the Ditchley portrait, By Marcus Gheerraerts the Younger, c. ... Image File history File links Download high resolution version (500x791, 98 KB)Elizabeth I, the Ditchley portrait, By Marcus Gheerraerts the Younger, c. ...

French farthingale

The French farthingale or vertugadin is properly a crescent- or sausage-shaped pad stiffened with bent or whalebone and tied around the waist under the skirts; the resulting silhouette is broad and rounded over the hips with the skirt hanging freely in folds.


This type of French farthingale seems to be the item called a roll in Elizabeth I's wardobe accounts. It is the origin of the bumroll worn by Elizabethan recreationists. Elizabeth I (7 September 1533–24 March 1603) was Queen of England, Queen of France (in name only), and Queen of Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death. ... See Historical reenactment for the generic use of the term. ...


The term French farthingale is also used for the wheel or drum farthingale, a stiffened circular support for the drum-shaped silhouette worn in England the 1590s.


The farthingale is the ancestor of eighteenth century panniers and of the nineteenth century crinoline. (17th century - 18th century - 19th century - more centuries) As a means of recording the passage of time, the 18th century refers to the century that lasted from 1701 through 1800. ... Marie Antoinette in a gown of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers. ... Alternative meaning: Nineteenth Century (periodical) (18th century — 19th century — 20th century — more centuries) As a means of recording the passage of time, the 19th century was that century which lasted from 1801-1900 in the sense of the Gregorian calendar. ... Wikimedia Commons has more media related to: Crinoline crinoline patented Cutaway view of a crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856 Crinoline was originally a stiff fabric with a weft of horse-hair and a warp of cotton or linen thread. ...


See also

  • 1500-1550 in fashion
  • 1550-1600 in fashion
  • 1600-1650 in fashion

Portrait of the family of Sir Thomas More shows English fashions of the later 1520s. ... English opulence, Italian reticella lace ruff, (possibly) Polish ornamentation, a French farthingale, and Spanish severity: The Ermine Portrait of Elizabeth I Fashion in the period 1550-1600 in Western European clothing is characterized by increased opulence, the rise of the ruff, the expansion of the farthingale for women, and, for... Fashion in the period 1600-1650 in Western European clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favor of broad lace or linen collars. ...

References

Ruth Matilda Anderson: Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, The Hispanic Society of America, New York 1979. (ISBN 87535-126-3)


Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9) Janet Arnold (1932-November 2, 1998) was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. ...


Janet Arnold: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. (ISBN 0-901286-20-6)


External links

  • Farthingales and Bumrolls


 
 

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