Fred Beckey (born Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey, 14 January 1923) is an American mountaineer, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber.^[1] is the 14th day of the year in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1923 (MCMXXIII) was a common year starting on Monday (link will display the full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... This article does not cite any references or sources. ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... North America North America is a continent[1] in the Earths northern hemisphere and (chiefly) western hemisphere. ...

Biography

Fred Beckey

"Beckey," as he is known to his climbing companions, was born in Düsseldorf, Germany, and his family emigrated to the United States when he was three, ending up in Seattle, Washington. He started climbing in the Cascades as a teenager, learning the basic concepts from The Mountaineers but quickly going on to harder climbs. Image File history File links No higher resolution available. ... The title of this article contains the character ü. Where it is unavailable or not desired, the name may be represented as Duesseldorf. ... “Seattle” redirects here. ... “Cascades” redirects here. ... This article needs to be cleaned up to conform to a higher standard of quality. ...

He attended the University of Washington and received a degree in business administration. He worked as a delivery truck driver, which left him time for climbing. The University of Washington, founded in 1861, is a public research university in Seattle, Washington. ...

Unlike Jim Whittaker, a fellow Seattleite and the first American to reach the top of Mount Everest in 1963, Beckey shied away from the large team efforts, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings. Beckey seemed a likely choice as a member for the 1963 Everest trip, but he was not chosen. (He had been to Everest in 1955 with the International Himalayan Expedition).^[2] Note: This article is about the mountaineer. ... “Everest” redirects here. ...

Guidebook author

In the late 1940s, he asked the Mountaineers of Seattle to publish his first climbing guidebook for the local peaks. They turned him down, and the American Alpine Club agreed to print a few thousand copies for a flat fee. The American Alpine Club was founded in 1902 and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to mountaineering, climbing, and the multitude of issues facing climbers. ...

In-between climbs, he wrote several books, most significantly the Cascade Alpine Guide, the 3-volume definitive description of the mountains from the Columbia River to the Canadian border (and the North Cascades, which extend into Canada), now in its third revision, published by The Mountaineers. The Cascade Alpine Guide(s) are a series of three climbing guides written by Fred Beckey, longtime explorer and climber of the Cascade Mountains in Washington State and British Columbia. ... The Columbia River (French: fleuve Columbia) is a river in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. ... The Peace Arch border Canada and the United States of America share the longest common border, officially known as the International Boundary, between any two countries that is not militarized or actively patrolled. ... Mount Adams in Washington state The Cascade Range is a mountainous region famous for its chain of tall volcanos called the High Cascades that run north-south along the west coast of North America from British Columbia to the Shasta Cascade area of northern California. ...

In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region "Range of Glaciers," was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press. According to a reviewer, he did much of the research for the volume in Washington, D.C., at the Library of Congress and the National Archives, scouring files of the Defense Department, State Department, U.S. Geological Survey and other agencies. Beckey also perused the Canadian archives in Ottawa; Hudson's Bay Co. archives in Winnipeg; British Columbia archives in Victoria; records of the Northwest Boundary Survey at Yale University; and records of the Northern Pacific and Great Northern railroads in Minneapolis. For other uses, see Washington, D.C. (disambiguation). ... Construction of the Thomas Jefferson Building, from July 8, 1888 to May 15, 1894. ... The United States Geological Survey (USGS) is a scientific agency of the United States government. ... This article is about the capital city of Canada. ... The Hudsons Bay Company (HBC. TSX: HBC) is the oldest commercial corporation in North America and is one of the oldest in the world. ... For other uses, see Winnipeg (disambiguation). ... Motto: Splendor Sine Occasu (Latin: Splendour Without Sunset (diminishment)) Capital Victoria Largest city Vancouver Official languages English Government - Lieutenant-Governor Iona Campagnolo - Premier Gordon Campbell (BC Liberal) Federal representation in Canadian Parliament - House seats 36 - Senate seats 6 Confederation July 20, 1871 (6th province) Area  Ranked 5th - Total 944,735... This article is about the city of Victoria. ... “Yale” redirects here. ... This article is about the city in Minnesota. ...

As of 2006, he continues to climb all over the world^{[citation needed]}. Year 2006 (MMVI) was a common year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar. ...

Mt. Beckey, named for Fred Beckey, is located in the Alaskan Range at North 62 degrees, 52 minutes, West 152 degrees, 15 minutes.

First ascents

Some of his first ascents:

• Forbidden Peak, Cascade Range - 1940, with brother Helmy and Lloyd Anderson
• Devils Thumb, Alaska - 1946^[3]
• Mount Hood's Yocum Ridge
• North Peak, Liberty Bell - 1947
• North Buttress, Mount Shuksan - 1947
• Mount Hunter (Alaska) - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm
• Mount Deborah - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm
• North Face of Mount Edith Cavell, Canada - 1961, with Yvon Chouinard^[3]
• Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse, British Columbia, Canada 1963
• Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, USA - 1996, with John Middendorf and Calvin Hebert

Other notable feats: “Cascades” redirects here. ... Devils Thumb is a mountain in the Stikine Icecap region of the Alaska-British Columbia border, near Petersburg. ... Official language(s) None[1] Spoken language(s) English 85. ... Mount Shuksan is a peak in the North Cascades National Park of the United States. ... Mount Hunter (or Begguya) is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. ... Heinrich Harrer Heinrich Harrer (July 6, 1912 – January 7, 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author. ... Mount Deborah is one of the major peaks of the eastern Alaska Range. ... Heinrich Harrer Heinrich Harrer (July 6, 1912 – January 7, 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, and author. ... Mount Edith Cavell is located in the Athabasca River and Astoria River valleys of Jasper National Park. ... Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) (in Maine) is a visionary rock climber, environmentalist and outdoor industry businessman, noted for his contributions to climbing, climbing equipment and the outdoor gear business. ... Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the North Cascades of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. ... Motto: Splendor Sine Occasu (Latin: Splendour Without Sunset (diminishment)) Capital Victoria Largest city Vancouver Official languages English Government - Lieutenant-Governor Iona Campagnolo - Premier Gordon Campbell (BC Liberal) Federal representation in Canadian Parliament - House seats 36 - Senate seats 6 Confederation July 20, 1871 (6th province) Area  Ranked 5th - Total 944,735... Year 1963 (MCMLXIII) was a common year starting on Tuesday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ...

• Second ascent Mount Waddington, British Columbia - 1942
• Triple ascent of Mount McKinley, Mount Deborah, and Mount Hunter - 1954

Mount Waddington is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains range. ... Motto: Splendor Sine Occasu (Latin: Splendour Without Sunset (diminishment)) Capital Victoria Largest city Vancouver Official languages English Government - Lieutenant-Governor Iona Campagnolo - Premier Gordon Campbell (BC Liberal) Federal representation in Canadian Parliament - House seats 36 - Senate seats 6 Confederation July 20, 1871 (6th province) Area  Ranked 5th - Total 944,735... Denali redirects here. ... Mount Deborah is one of the major peaks of the eastern Alaska Range. ... Mount Hunter (or Begguya) is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. ...

Quotation

"Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. He was noted as "one of America's most colorful and eccentric mountaineers," and is unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of the North Cascades." --Mountaineers Books

Books

• Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
• Cascade Alpine Guide (3 vols.) (Mountaineers Books, 1973-2003)
  • Columbia River to Stevens Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN 0-89886-577-8)
  • Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN 0-89886-152-7)
  • Rainy Pass to Fraser River (1981, 2nd ed. 1995, ISBN 0-89886-423-2)
• Challenge of the North Cascades (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN 0-89886-479-8)
• Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America (Mountaineers Books 1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
• The Bugaboos: An Alpine History (1987)
• Mountains of North America (1986)
• Mountains of North America (Sierra Club, 1982)
• Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide (Mountaineers Books, 1976)
• Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas (Mountaineers Books, 1965)
• Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)

The Cascade Alpine Guide(s) are a series of three climbing guides written by Fred Beckey, longtime explorer and climber of the Cascade Mountains in Washington State and British Columbia. ... The Sierra Club is an American environmental organization founded on May 28, 1892 in San Francisco, California by the well-known preservationist John Muir, who became its first president. ...

References

1. ^ Modie, Neil. "Icon to some, legendary climber Beckey still obscure to many", Seattle Post-Intelligencer, Seattle PI, March 8, 2003. Retrieved on Jan 7, 2006. (English) 
2. ^ "Solu Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After Lhotse". American Alpine Journal, 1956 10 (2): 7. 
3. ^ ^{a b} Child, Greg (October 2000). Rock Legends. Outside Magazine. Retrieved on 10/04/2006.