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Encyclopedia > Free climbing
In free soloing and bouldering, the climber carries nothing but a chalk bag. The dangers of climbing more than a couple of metres from the ground are evident.
In free soloing and bouldering, the climber carries nothing but a chalk bag. The dangers of climbing more than a couple of metres from the ground are evident.

Free climbing is the most common style of rock climbing, [citation needed] in which the climber uses no artificial aids to make upwards progress. In this way, the climber will use only hands, feet and other parts of the body. Ropes and protective equipment are used only for protection against the consequences of a fall. The term is used in contrast to aid climbing, a much less prevalent practice in which equipment is used directly (i.e. pulled or stood on) in order to make progress. Image File history File links Download high resolution version (1024x768, 254 KB) Photo from flickr. ... Image File history File links Download high resolution version (1024x768, 254 KB) Photo from flickr. ... Climbers on Valkyrie at the Roaches. ... To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection to prevent injury to themselves and others. ... Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. ...


Styles of free climbing include traditional climbing, sport climbing, free soloing and bouldering. Traditional climbing. ... Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. ... Free solo climbing involves scaling a mountain without a partner, rope, or protection. ... Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and normally limited to very short climbs so that a fall will not result in injury. ...


The term free climbing is commonly confused with free soloing by non-climbers. This is a type of free climbing where no rope or protective equipment is used for protection, and a fall would clearly be disastrous. In contrast, the vast majority of free climbers will make use of such equipment as a safeguard when climbing at height. Free solo climbing involves scaling a mountain without a partner, rope, or protection. ...


Free climbing "guidelines" from a U.S. perspective (Stonemaster's, et al.): the adventure of exploring the unknown, living on the cutting edge of the possible and the impossible, and striving to go one better. In light of those ideals, the climbing community espoused a goal of avoiding behavior that sullies (makes less challenging in any way beyond personal improvement) a climbing route.

Contents

"Rules" of free climbing

The goal is to climb the route first try on-sight as if the rope (if one is being used) is not there. Therefore, true free climbing prohibits:
In climbing, climbing on sight means that a climber is attempting a route that they have never attempted before, nor have they seen anyone else attempt. ...

  • Pre-climb inspections to learn more about the climb before starting (however one should always perform a safety inspection on any face that they are about to climb)
  • Hangdogging (resting on gear or the rope)
  • Pre-placing gear (pinkpointing)
  • Pulling or stepping on gear (french free)
  • Prior top roping of the lead climb (most common in trad climbing, frequently termed 'headpointing')
  • Practice through falling (i.e. failing) on previous lead attempts (most common in sport climbing, frequently termed 'redpointing')

Although an on-sight attempt is the most coveted, in practice all of the above tactics are common practice to greater or lesser extent. This is especially the case in sport climbing. Ordinarily, the traditional climber will only resort to aid as a last resort, in order to complete a hard climb. The aid climber strives to free climb as much of the route as possible. ... Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. ...


See also

Climbers on Valkyrie at the Roaches. ...

Further reading

John Long (born 1953) is an American rock climber and author. ...

Links


  Results from FactBites:
 
Mountain Climbing - MSN Encarta (1575 words)
The earliest documented rock climb done for sport (not for military reconnaissance or scientific inquiry) was the 35-m (115-ft) high Nape’s Needle in the Lake District of England, which W. Hasket-Smith climbed alone on June 27, 1886.
The first documented rock climb in North America was made in 1910 on a portion of Mount Washington in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, although the mountain itself had been climbed much earlier.
Rock climbing routes are named and assigned a difficulty rating by the first team of climbers to ascend a particular route.
Free climbing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (310 words)
Free climbing is a style of climbing in which the climber uses no artificial aids to make progress upwards, but just hands, feet and other parts of the body.
Styles of free climbing include traditional climbing, sport climbing, some forms of solo climbing and bouldering.
Free soloing is a type of free climbing where no rope is used for protection and falls would be disastrous.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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