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Encyclopedia > Fulling

Fulling or tucking or walking ("waulking" in Scotland) is a step in woollen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth (particularly wool) to get rid of oils, dirt, and other impurities, and thickening it. The worker who does the job is a fuller, tucker or walker. Despite suggestions to the contrary,[1] these processes are essentially identical. This article is about the country. ... This article is about wool, the fiber. ... Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest of mans technologies. ... It has been suggested that Textile be merged into this article or section. ... For other uses, see Wool (disambiguation). ...

Engraving of Scotswomen waulking or fulling cloth, c. 1770
Engraving of Scotswomen waulking or fulling cloth, c. 1770

Contents

The Process

Fulling involves two processes - scouring and milling (thickening). These are followed by stretching the cloth on great frames known as tenters and held onto those frames by tenterhooks. It is from this process that we derive the phrase being on tenterhooks as meaning to be held in suspense. The area where the tenters were erected was known as a tenterground. A tenterground or tenter ground was an area used for drying newly manufactured cloth after fulling. ...


Originally, this was literally pounding the cloth with the fuller's feet (whence the description of them as 'walkers'), or with his hands or a club. However, from the medieval period, it was often carried out in a water mill. A watermill is a machine constructed by connecting a water wheel to a pair of millstones. ...


Scouring

In Roman times, fulling was conducted by slaves standing ankle deep in tubs of human urine and cloth. Urine was so important to the fulling business that urine was taxed. Urine (known as 'wash') was a source of ammonium salts, and assisted in cleansing the cloth. This article is about the urine of animals generally. ... Urine Tax was a tax levied by the Roman emperor Nero in the first century C.E. upon the collection of urine. ... A ball-and-stick model of the ammonium cation Ammonium is also an old name for the Siwa Oasis in western Egypt. ...


By the medieval period, fuller's earth had been introduced. This is a soft clay-like material occurring in nature as an impure hydrous aluminium silicate. This seems to have been used in conjunction with 'wash'. More recently, soap has been used. The Middle Ages formed the middle period in a traditional schematic division of European history into three ages: the classical civilization of Antiquity, the Middle Ages, and modern times. ... Fullers earth is any nonplastic clay or claylike material that can be used to decolorize, filter, and purify animal, mineral, and vegetable oils and greases. ... For other uses, see Soap (disambiguation). ...


Thickening

The second function of fulling was to thicken the cloth, by matting the fibres together to give it strength. This was vital in the case of woollens, made from short staple wool, but not worsteds made from long staple wool. At this stage, the liquid used was water, thus rinsing out the foul smelling liquor used during cleansing. Woolen (British spelling woollen) is the name of a yarn and cloth usually made from wool. ... Two wool samples of different staple lengths Staple is a term referring to fiber that comes in discrete and consistent lengths, measured in millimeters. ... For other uses, see Wool (disambiguation). ... Worsted is the name of a dick the cloth made from this yarn, as well as a yarn weight category. ...


Fulling Mills

A fulling mill from Georg Andreas Böckler's Theatrum Machinarum Novum, 1661
A fulling mill from Georg Andreas Böckler's Theatrum Machinarum Novum, 1661

From the medieval period, the fulling of cloth was often undertaken in a water mill, known as a fulling mill (also as walk mills or tuck mills). In Wales, a fulling mill is a pandy. In these, the cloth was beaten with wooden hammers, known as fulling stocks. Fulling stocks were of two kinds, falling stocks (operating vertically), used only for scouring, and driving or hanging stocks. In both cases the machinery was operated by cams on the shaft of a waterwheel or on a tappet wheel, which lifted the hammer. Georg Andreas Böckler (1644-1698), was a German architect and engineer who wrote Architectura Curiosa Nova (1664) and Theatrum Machinarum Novum (1661). ... A watermill is a machine constructed by connecting a water wheel to a pair of millstones. ... This article is about the country. ... For other uses, see CAM. Animation showing rotating cams and cam followers producing reciprocating motion. ... An overshot water wheel standing 42 feet high powers the Old Mill at Berry College in Rome, Georgia A water wheel (also waterwheel, Norse mill, Persian wheel or noria) is a hydropower system; a system for extracting power from a flow of water. ... In mechanical engineering, a tappet is a projection which imparts a linear motion to some other component within an assembly. ...


Driving stocks were pivotted so that the 'foot' (the head of the hammer) struck the cloth almost horizontally. The stock had a tub holding the liquor and cloth. This was somewhat rounded on the side away from the hammer, so that the cloth gradually turned, ensuring that all parts of it were milled evenly. However, the cloth was taken out about every two hours to undo plaits and wrinkles. The 'foot' was somewhat triangular in shape, with notches to assist the turning of the cloth.


History

The first reference to a fulling mill so far discovered was in Normandy about 1086.[2] The first in England occurs in the Winton Domesday of 1117-19. Others belonged to the Knights Templar by 1185. For other uses, see Normandy (disambiguation). ... For other uses, see England (disambiguation). ... Events Knights Templar founded Baldwin of Le Bourg succeeds his cousin Baldwin I as king of Jerusalem John II Comnenus succeeds Alexius I as Byzantine emperor Gelasius II succeeds Paschal II as pope Births November 28 - Manuel I Comnenus, Byzantine Emperor (died 1180) Andronicus I Comnenus, Byzantine Emperor (died 1185... For other uses, see Knights Templar (disambiguation). ... Events April 25 - Genpei War - Naval battle of Dan-no-ura leads to Minamoto victory in Japan Templars settle in London and begin the building of New Temple Church End of the Heian Period and beginning of the Kamakura period in Japan. ...


They became widespread during the 13th century, and occur in most counties of England and Wales, but were largely absent in areas only making worsteds. (12th century - 13th century - 14th century - other centuries) As a means of recording the passage of time, the 13th century was that century which lasted from 1201 to 1300. ... For other uses, see England (disambiguation). ... This article is about the country. ... Worsted is the name of a dick the cloth made from this yarn, as well as a yarn weight category. ...


What caused Don Quixote to tilt at windmills? "Six huge Fulling-Mill Hammers which interchangeably thumping several Pieces of Cloth, made the terrible Noise that caus'd all Don Quixote's Anxieties and Sancho's Tribulation that Night." from Don Quixote by Cervantes.


Popular Culture

‘Fulling’ is popularly called ‘felting’ or ‘boiled wool’ by crafters today (as distinguished from non-woven felt). You can create fulled (felted) fabric at home by beating a sweater in an ordinary washing machine set on hot, load size small, with heavy agitation, and soap. The heat, water and agitation cause the scales of the hair fibers to open up and lock together. The shrunken result is dense, durable, and irreversible. Woolen fabrics (unless treated), some blends, or almost any animal hair will felt, but cotton, acrylics, synthetics or plant fiber will not. For example, the "mats" in cat fur and "dreadlocks" in human hair are formed by a similar process of locking the microscopic scales of the hair together.


See also

Look up fulling, tenter in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Wikipedia does not have an article with this exact name. ... Wiktionary (a portmanteau of wiki and dictionary) is a multilingual, Web-based project to create a free content dictionary, available in over 151 languages. ... Waulking songs (Scots Gaelic: Orain Luaidh) are pieces of Scottish folk music, traditionally sung by women while waulking (in fact, men were often banned from the sessions). ...

References

  • Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved June 30, 2005.
  • E. K. Scott, 'Early Cloth Fulling and its Machinery' Trans. Newcomen Soc. 12 (1931), 30-52.
  • E. M. Carus-Wilson, 'An Industrial Revolution of the Thirteenth Century' Economic History Review, Old Series, 11(1) (1941), 39-60.
  • Reginald Lennard, 'Early English Fulling Mills: Additional Examples' Economic History Review, New Series, 3(3) (1951), 342-343.
  • R. A. Pelham, Fulling Mills (Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings, mills booklet 5, c.1958)
  • A. J. Parkinson, 'Fulling mills in Merinoneth' J. Merioneth Gist. & Rec. Soc. 9(4) (1984), 420-56. so that the
  • D. Druchunas 'Felting, Vogue Knitting, The Basics', Sixth & Spring Books, NY. (2005) 10.

The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) was founded by William Morris in 1877, to oppose what he saw as the insensitive renovation of ancient buildings then occurring in Victorian England. ...

Notes

  1. ^ Jones, Gareth Daniel Rhydderch of Aberloch, reproduced from The Western Mail July 17, 1933 accessed at [1] June 19, 2006
  2. ^ J. Gimpel, The Medieval Machine (2nd edn, Pimlico, London 1992 repr.), 14.
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Cheesecloth is a loosewoven cotton cloth, such as is used in pressing cheese curds. ... Chiffon, from the French word for Cloth, is a lightweight, balanced plain-woven sheer fabric woven of alternate S- and Z-twist crepe (high-twist) yarns. ... Chino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made primarily from cotton. ... Cloth of gold is a fabric woven with a gold-wrapped or spun weft - referred to as a spirally spun gold strip. In most cases, the core yarn is silk wrapped with a band/ or strip of high content gold filé. In rarer instances, fine linen and wool have been... Cotton duck (from Dutch doek,linen canvas), also simply duck, sometimes duck cloth or duck canvas is a heavy cotton fabric. ... Coutil (or Coutille) is woven twill cloth created specifically for making corsets. ... Crape (an anglicized version of the Fr. ... This article is about the material denim. ... Dimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabric having at least two warp threads thrown into relief to form fine cords. ... Dowlas is the name given to a plain cloth, similar to sheeting, but usually coarser. ... Drill is a strong, durable cotton fabric with a strong bias (diagonal) in the weave. ... A foulard is a lightweight fabric, either twill or plain-woven, made of silk or a mix of silk and cotton. ... A young man wearing a tartan flannel shirt. ... Gabardine Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers and other garments. ... This article does not cite any references or sources. ... Gingham is a fabric made from dyed cotton yarn. ... Haircloth is a stiff, unsupple fabric typically made from horsehair and/or from the wooly hair of a camel. ... For other uses, see Harris Tweed (disambiguation). ... Hodden is a coarse kind of cloth made of undyed wool, formerly much worn by the peasantry of Scotland. ... 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Russell cord is a corded fabric which is woven using equal quantities of cotton and wool. ... Samite may refer to : The Ugandan-American musician Samite Mulondo. ... Sateen is a cotton fabric with a satin-like finish, often found in bed sheets. ... Satin used in bedding Structure of silk satin Look up Satin in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. ... Scarlet was a type of fine and expensive woolen cloth common in mediaeval England. ... Grey and white seersucker material. ... Serge is a type of twill fabric that has diagonal lines or ridges on both sides, made with a two-up, two-down weave. ... Stuff was a type of coarse woven cloth manufactured in various places, formerly including Kidderminster. ... Taffeta (sometimes spelled taffety) is a crisp, smooth woven fabric made from silk or synthetic fibers. ... Tweed is a rough, unfinished woolen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. ... A twill weave can easily be identified by its diagonal lines. ... Via Gellia is a steep sided wooded dry valley and road in Derbyshire. ... Image File history File links No higher resolution available. ... Image File history File links Size of this preview: 600 × 600 pixelsFull resolution (725 × 725 pixel, file size: 1 MB, MIME type: image/png) File history Legend: (cur) = this is the current file, (del) = delete this old version, (rev) = revert to this old version. ... Brocade can stands for: thick heavy fabric into which raised patterns have been woven. ... Camlet, also commonly known as camelot or camblet, is a woven fabric that might have originally been made of camel or goats hair, now chiefly of goats hair and silk, or of wool and cotton. ... Italian silk damask, 1300s. ... Songket is fabric which belongs to the brocade family of textiles. ... Baize is a coarse woollen or cotton cloth, often coloured red or green. ... Chenille may refer to either a type of cored yarn or fabric made from it. ... Corduroy is a fabric composed of twisted fibers that when woven lie parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloths distinct pattern, a cord. ... Fustian is a term for a variety of heavy woven cotton fabrics, chiefly prepared for menswear. ... Plush (from French peluche) is a textile fabric having a cut nap or pile the same as fustian or velvet. ... Polar fleece, more often called just fleece, is a soft napped insulating synthetic wool fabric made from PET or other synthetic fibers. ... Terry cloth. ... Velours du Kasaï Velours du Kasaï (Kasaï velvet) is a kind of textile fabric made in Kasai, a province in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (Zaïre). ... Swatch of black cotton velvet decorator fabric used for drapery Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it its distinct feel. ... 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Toile is a type of decorating pattern, consisting of a white or off-white background on which a repeated pattern depicting a fairly complex scene, generally of a pastoral theme such as (for example) a couple having a picnic by a lake. ... Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (Polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of ~100,000. ... This article is about a breed of domesticated ungulates. ... Angora wool or Angora fiber refers to the downy coat produced by the Angora rabbit. ... For other uses, see Asbestos (disambiguation). ... Carbon fiber composite is a strong, light and very expensive material. ... Kashmere redirects here. ... Catgut is the name applied to cord of great toughness and tenacity prepared from the intestines of sheep/goat, or occasionally from those of the hog, horse, mule, pig, and donkey. ... 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SEM picture of a bend in a high surface area polyester fiber with a seven-lobed cross section Polyester (aka Terylene) is a category of polymers which contain the ester functional group in their main chain. ... Piña is a fiber derived from the leaves of a pineapple. ... Binomial name Boehmeria nivea (L.) Gaudich. ... Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. ... For other uses of this word, see Silk (disambiguation). ... A tendon or sinew is a tough band of fibrous connective tissue, attached on one end to a muscle and on the other to a bone. ... Binomial name Agave sisalana Perrine Sisal or sisal hemp is an agave Agave sisalana that yields a stiff fiber used in making rope. ... Example of spandex Spandex or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. ... Spider silk is a fibre secreted by spiders. ... For other uses, see Wool (disambiguation). ... This article is about the textile dyeing technique. ... 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  Results from FactBites:
 
The Fulling Mills of the Isle of Wight (2394 words)
In setting up a fulling mill, the lord of a manor too found a profitable form of income to be had from requiring the tenants of his estate to use it to full their cloth.
Fulling, also known as felting, was one in a sequence of processes involved in the production of woollen cloth and fulfilled two functions that were necessary for the proper finishing of the cloth: scouring and consolidation of the fibres of the fabric.
The fulling stocks were construsted using a large wooden frame to support an inclined arm with a stock at one end, rather like a large mallet, pivoted at one end so as to allow it to swing in an arc down onto the cloth contained in a wooden trough.
Fulling Mills (1682 words)
The Fulling or Tucking process consists of the closing together of the threads of newly woven woollen fabric with the assistance of soap or acid liquor, with the end purpose of producing a grease free cloth of the correct thickness for future use, including dying.
Fulling was one in a sequence of important processes involved in the production of woollen cloth, and fulfilled two functions that were necessary for the proper finishing of the cloth, namely scouring and consolidation of the fibres of the fabric.
Following the fulling process, the cloth was attached is to a tentering frame in order to stretch it to the required size by setting the weave to a consistent dimension and tension, and it also acted as a way of evenly drying and bleaching the cloth in the sunlight.
  More results at FactBites »


 
 

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