Lino Lacedelli (born December 4, 1925) is an Italian mountaineer. December 4th redirects here. ... Year 1925 (MCMXXV) was a common year starting on Thursday (link will display the full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ...
Biography
Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo (Province of Belluno). Cortina dAmpezzo is a town and municipality in the province of Belluno, Veneto, northern Italy. ... Belluno (It. ...
Together with Achille Compagnoni, he was the first man to reach the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio. This article or section does not cite any references or sources. ... The North Face of K2 K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth. ... July 31 is the 212th day of the year (213th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1954 (MCMLIV) was a common year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar) of the Gregorian calendar. ... Count Ardito Desio (April 18, 1897 â December 12, 2001) was an Italian explorer, mountain climber, geologist, and cartographer. ...
Lacedelli now admits leaving Bonattis bivouac site at about 7:30 instead of the 6:15 given in the official account written by Desio, so that fits in with Bonattis claim that they absolutely couldnt have reached it before 7 AM when he lost view of the bivouac site from Camp 8.
Lacedelli explained later in a Dave Roberts interview that this was to warm their breath (4).
Lacedelli, present at K2 as part of the Italian 2004 Fifty Year Anniversary climb, even attempted to call Bonatti from the mountain but was refused.
While LinoLacedelli and Achile Compagnony were celebrated as national heroes; a furious Walter Bonatti accused the two summiteers to have abandoned him in the death zone.
Compagnoni and Lacedellis epic ascent of the crux of the route the serac-threatened Bottleneck and the horribly exposed and icy Traverse to the summit slopes is a classic of mountaineering literature.
Lacedelli and Compagnoni were national heroes, and Italian pride justifiably swelled to fill the gap left by the destruction of the Second World War.