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Encyclopedia > Longs Peak
Longs Peak

Snowpack accumulation on Longs Peak
Elevation 14,259 feet (4,346 metres)
Location Colorado, USA
Range Front Range
Prominence 9,822 ft (2,994 m)
Coordinates 40°15′18.05″N, 105°36′54.42″W
Topo map USGS Longs Peak
First ascent 1868 by John Wesley Powell and party
Easiest route Keyhole (scramble)

Longs Peak (or Long's Peak, see below) is one of the 54 "fourteeners" in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. It can be prominently seen from Longmont, Colorado, as well as from the rest of the Colorado Front Range piedmont. It is named after Major Stephen Long, who explored the area in the 1820s. It is very popular to climb. Download high resolution version (600x873, 124 KB)Image Number K7679-3 Snowpack accumulation at 14,255 ft. ... A topographical summit is a point on a surface which is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. ... Official language(s) English Capital Denver Largest city Denver Area  Ranked 8th  - Total 104,185 sq mi (269,837 km²)  - Width 280 miles (451 km)  - Length 380 miles (612 km)  - % water 0. ... A mountain range is a group of mountains bordered by lowlands or separated from other mountain ranges by passes or rivers. ... The Front Range is shown highlighted on a map of the western United States The Front Range is a mountain range in the United States on the eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains, and on the western edge of the Great Plains. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height, shoulder drop or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains. ... Map of Earth showing lines of latitude (horizontally) and longitude (vertically), Eckert VI projection; large version (pdf, 1. ... It has been suggested that Topographic profile be merged into this article or section. ... The United States Geological Survey (USGS) is a scientific agency of the United States government. ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... 1868 (MDCCCLXVIII) was a leap year starting on Wednesday (see link for calendar) of the Gregorian calendar or a leap year starting on Friday of the 12-day-slower Julian calendar. ... First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871 John Wesley Powell (March 24, 1834 - September 23, 1902) was a U.S. soldier, geologist, and explorer of the American West. ... Southern and northern Mount Everest climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. ... In mountaineering, a fourteener is a mountain that exceeds 14,000 feet (4,267. ... Moraine Lake, and the Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff National Park, British Colombia, Canada The Rocky Mountains, often called the Rockies, are a broad mountain range in western North America. ... Official language(s) English Capital Denver Largest city Denver Area  Ranked 8th  - Total 104,185 sq mi (269,837 km²)  - Width 280 miles (451 km)  - Length 380 miles (612 km)  - % water 0. ... Longmont is a city located in Boulder County, Colorado. ... Official language(s) English Capital Denver Largest city Denver Area  Ranked 8th  - Total 104,185 sq mi (269,837 km²)  - Width 280 miles (451 km)  - Length 380 miles (612 km)  - % water 0. ... The Colorado Front Range is a colloquial geographic term for the populated areas of the state of Colorado in the United States which are just east of the foothills of the Front Range, from which the region takes its name. ... Stephen Harriman Long (1784 - 1864) was a U.S. army officer and explorer. ... Events and Trends Nationalistic independence movements helped reshape the world during this decade: Greece declares independence from the Ottoman Empire (1821). ...

On May 31, 2005, an image of Longs Peak was chosen by Colorado governor Bill Owens as the design for the Colorado state quarter.

Longs Peak rises to 14,259 feet (4,346 meters) above sea level. Surveys conducted prior to 2002 list the elevation as 14,255 feet. [1] Image File history File linksMetadata Download high resolution version (2000x2000, 1266 KB) The reverse side of the Colorado State Quarter. ... Image File history File linksMetadata Download high resolution version (2000x2000, 1266 KB) The reverse side of the Colorado State Quarter. ... May 31 is the 151st day of the year in the Gregorian calendar (152nd in leap years), with 214 days remaining. ... 2005 (MMV) was a common year starting on Saturday of the Gregorian calendar. ... This article is about the Governor of Colorado. ... Obverse of redesigned quarter The 50 State Quarters program is the release of a series of commemorative coins by the United States Mint. ...


When taken with its neighbor Mount Meeker, they are sometimes referred to as the Twin Peaks. This is not to be confused with another pair of mountains, called the Twin Sisters.


As the only fourteener in Rocky Mountain National Park, the peak has long been of interest to climbers. The easiest route is not "technical" during the summer season, and was probably first used by American Indians collecting eagle feathers, but the first recorded ascent was in 1868 by the surveying party of John Wesley Powell. The East Face of the mountain is quite steep, and is surmounted by a gigantic sheer cliff known as "The Diamond" (so-named because of its shape, approximately that of a cut diamond seen from the side and inverted - see image at right). Another famous profile belongs to Longs Peak: to the southeast of the summit is a series of rises which, when viewed from the northeast, resembles a beaver. Rocky Mountain National Park is located in the north central region of the U.S. state of Colorado. ... It has been suggested that Rock Climbing be merged into this article or section. ... An Aani (Atsina) named Assiniboin Boy. ... // This article is about the bird. ... 1868 (MDCCCLXVIII) was a leap year starting on Wednesday (see link for calendar) of the Gregorian calendar or a leap year starting on Friday of the 12-day-slower Julian calendar. ... First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871 John Wesley Powell (March 24, 1834 - September 23, 1902) was a U.S. soldier, geologist, and explorer of the American West. ... // A scattering of round-brilliant cut diamonds shows off the many reflecting facets. ... Species C. canadensis C. fiber Beavers are hairy,semi-aquatic rodents native to North America and Europe that enjoy long walks on the beach and licking wood. ...


The first proposal to climb the Diamond, in 1954, was met with an official closure by the National Park Service, a stance not changed until 1960. The Diamond was first ascended that year, and the route was listed in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, although today the "Casual Route" (5.10-) is considered a better climb. 1954 (MCMLIV) was a common year starting on Friday of the Gregorian calendar. ... The National Park Service (NPS) is the United States federal agency that manages all National Parks, many National Monuments, and other conservation and historical properties with various title designations. ... 1960 (MCMLX) was a leap year starting on Friday (the link is to a full 1960 calendar). ...


As with Pikes Peak, there is officially no apostrophe in the name, although a number of Colorado residents continue to object to this ruling by the Board on Geographic Names. Pikes Peak (formerly Pikes Peak, see below) is a mountain in the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains, 10 miles (16 km) west of Colorado Springs, Colorado, in El Paso County. ... An apostrophe An apostrophe (French, from the Greek αποστροφος προσωδια, the accent of elision) ( ’ ) is a punctuation and sometimes diacritic mark in languages written in the Latin alphabet. ... The United States Board on Geographic Names (BGN) is a US Federal body whose purpose is to establish and maintain uniform usage of geographic names throughout the Federal Government. ...

Contents

Hiking Longs Peak

No technical climbing is required to reach the summit of Longs Peak during the summer season, which typically runs from mid July through early September. Outside of this window the popular "Keyhole" route is still open, however its rating is upgraded to "technical" as treacherous ice formation and snow fall necessitates the use of specialized climbing equipment including, at a minimum, crampons and an ice axe. It is considered to be the most difficult 3rd class fourteener in Colorado. Those intending to summit would be advised to read the National Park Service guide linked below for tips on proper preparation and equipment to bring. Another helpful resource is Paul Nesbit's Longs Peak: Its Story and a Climbing Guide released in a new 11th edition in 2005 (edited by Stan Adamson, Broomfield, Colorado: Grey Wolf Books U.S.A.). While the climb is non-technical it is by no means easy or without serious danger. The hike from the trailhead to the summit is 7.5 miles each way. Most hikers begin before dawn in order to reach the summit and return below treeline before the frequent afternoon thunderstorms bring a risk of lightning strikes. The most difficult portion of the hike begins at the Boulder Field, 5.9 miles into the hike. After scrambling over the boulders, hikers reach the Keyhole at 6.2 miles. In this view of an alpine tree-line, the distant line looks particularly sharp. ... A shelf cloud associated with a heavy or severe thunderstorm over Enschede, The Netherlands. ... Please wikify (format) this article or section as suggested in the Guide to layout and the Manual of Style. ...

The Keyhole as seen from the Boulder Field. A small stone shelter (Agnes Vaille Memorial) approximately 10 feet high that sits on the left side of the Keyhole gives a sense of scale.
The Keyhole as seen from the Boulder Field. A small stone shelter (Agnes Vaille Memorial) approximately 10 feet high that sits on the left side of the Keyhole gives a sense of scale.

The following quarter of a mile involves a scramble along narrow ledges, many of which may have sheer cliffs of 1000 feet or more just off the edge. The next portion of the hike includes climbing over 1,000 vertical feet up the Trough before reaching the most exposed section of the hike, the Narrows. Just beyond the Narrows, the Notch signifies the beginning of the Homestretch to the football field-sized, flat summit. It is possible to camp out overnight in the Boulder Field (permit required) which makes for a less arduous two day hike, although this is fairly exposed to the elements. According to the National Park Service, one person, on average, dies every year attempting to climb the mountain. In the summer of 2005 a Japanese climber was blown off a ledge after reaching the summit. Lighted Keyhole File history Legend: (cur) = this is the current file, (del) = delete this old version, (rev) = revert to this old version. ... Lighted Keyhole File history Legend: (cur) = this is the current file, (del) = delete this old version, (rev) = revert to this old version. ...


For hikers who do not wish to climb to the summit, there are less-involved hikes on the peak as well. Peacock Pool and Chasm Lake are popular hiking destinations and follow well-maintained trails. It is also rewarding to hike just to the Boulder Field, the Keyhole, or the seldom-visited but spectacular Chasm View. Camping is available at the Boulder Field and also on the lower portions of the mountain, such as Goblin's Forest. Technical climbers, with the correct permit, are allowed to use "bivy" sites at the base of the East Face and at Chasm View. It is also possible to camp to the South of the mountain at Sand Beach Lake.


Climbing Longs Peak

In addition to the standard "Keyhole" route, there are more serious and more technical climbs on Longs Peak. Some of the more common routes are, in approximate order of popularity,

  • North Face Cables route. This follows the Keyhole route to the Boulder Field, then ascends the North Face of the peak. It requires one or two pitches of low-5th class climbing, and is often downclimbed or rappelled by technical climbers since it is one of the fastest ways to ascend or descend the peak. In the early 20th century, enterprising guides installed a series of large steel eye bolts along this route, connecting them with a steel cable similar to systems in the Alps. The cables were removed later due to the lightning hazard, but the bolts remain and are used as rappel anchors.
  • Kieners Route. A traditional mountaineering climb that involves a climb of Lambs Slide, which is icy later in the season, then an exposed traverse of the Broadway ledge, and then low-5th class climbing. Lambs Slide is so-named because of the Reverend Elkanah J. Lamb's nearly fatal tumble down it [1].
  • via the Loft. The Loft is the semi-permanent snowfield between Longs Peak and its south-eastern neighbor Mt. Meeker. From the saddle you can traverse to either peak. One such traverse route is Gorilla's Traverse. It is also possible to ascend to the saddle via Lambs Slide.
  • via the East Face. The East Face is the steep, 1000 + foot wall that includes the Diamond and the Lower East Face. All climbs here are technical, from 5.10 to 5.13. It is also possible to ascend to the (climber's) left of the Diamond face proper. The routes on the right side of the Diamond are often aid climbed, and may require spending the night on the wall; the rock here can be very wet. Routes on the left side of the Diamond are usually free climbed. Only qualified climbers should attempt climbs on this face, and should take into consideration the effects of altitude and alpine conditions in addition to the difficulty rating.
  • via the Notch Couloir. This is a technical climb involving rock climbing and, at some times of year, ice climbing. The Notch Couloir is to the (climber's) left of the Diamond face.
  • via the Keyhole Ridge. Follow the Keyhole route to the Keyhole, the climb the ridge to the summit. This route involves fourth class and low-5th class climbing.
  • via one of the snowfields above the Boulder Field. Sometimes referred to as the "doves". This is also a low-5th class climb.
  • via Keplinger's Couloir. This is a long approach from the South of the mountain. You do not start at the usual trailhead, but instead from the trailhead to the South, and then ascend via Sand Beach lake. This is a time-consuming, but non-technical climb, and involves much route-finding and cross-country travel.
  • via the Trough Couloir. This also starts from a different trailhead to the North, and is also long. It may be ascended in summer, but there will be rock fall from the many climbers high above on the Keyhole route. It is better done when full of snow.
  • via Camel's Gully. This is used mainly as a descent route after climbing the East Face. It ascends from Mills Glacier to the saddle between Mt. Lady Washington and Longs Peak.
  • via the North Face. Follow the Keyhole route passed the Keyhole and around to the North Face. Many lines have been climbed, all technical, but these routes are seldom done. The rock quality is not high, and there the Keyhole route is below, so some of these routes present rock fall danger to other climbers.
  • via Keplinger's Route. This is a route up the south face of the peak, referred to on older maps as Keplinger's Route. It is largely class 3 with some class four climbing that can be accomplished without technical gear, though this is dangerous.

There are also technical climbing routes that do not lead to the summit. These include climbs on the Lower East Face, such as Stettner's Ledges, climbs on Chasm View Wall, climbs on the Prow and climbs on the Palisades. In addition, Mt. Meeker has some ice couloirs, most notably "Dreamweaver." The West face of the Petit Dru above the Chamonix valley near the Mer de Glace. ... Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. ... In free solo climbing and bouldering, the climber carries nothing but a chalk bag. ... Altitude sickness, also known as acute mountain sickness (AMS) or altitude illness is a pathological condition that is caused by lack of adaptation to high altitudes. ... The Yosemite Decimal System is a numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs, primarily used for mountaineering in the United States. ... Ice climbing is the recreational activity of climbing ice formations such as icefalls, and frozen waterfalls. ...


References

  1. ^ http://www.skyrunner.com/story/coheights.htm
  • Rocky Mountain National Park: High Peaks: The Climber's Guide, Bernard Gillett, (Earthbound Sports; 2001) ISBN 0-9643698-5-0
  • Rock and Ice Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park: The High Peaks, Richard Rossiter, (Falcon; 1996) ISBN 0-934641-66-8

External links


  Results from FactBites:
 
Longs Peak - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (1561 words)
Another famous profile belongs to Longs Peak: to the southeast of the summit is a series of rises which, when viewed from the northeast, resembles a beaver.
The Loft is the semi-permanent snowfield between Longs Peak and its south-eastern neighbor Mt. Meeker.
This is a long approach from the South of the mountain.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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