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Encyclopedia > Piton

In climbing, a piton (also called a pin or peg) is a steel spike that is driven into a crack or seam in the rock with a hammer, and which acts as an anchor to protect the climber against the consequences of a fall, or to assist progress in aid climbing. Climbers on Valkyrie at The Roaches in Staffordshire, England. ... To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection to prevent injury to themselves and others. ... Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. ...


Pitons were the original equipment for protection and are still used where there is no alternative. However, the repeated hammering and extraction of pitons damages the rock, and climbers who subscribe to the ethic of clean climbing eschew their use as far as possible. Today, pitons have largely been replaced by nuts and cams, although they are often still found in place on some established climbing routes. To make climbing as safe as possible, most climbers use protection to prevent injury to themselves and others. ... Clean climbing is a style of rock climbing that avoids damage to the rock by eschewing the drilling of bolts and the hammering of pitons. ... A selection of nuts and a nut removal tool. ... A three-cam SLCD manufactured by Metolius. ...


There are many different styles of pitons available. The most common are:


Lost Arrows - A tapered piton that performs well in medium sized seams.
Knifeblades - Also known as Bugaboos, a thin straight piton, perfect for thin, deep seams.
Angles - Made of steel sheet bent to a 90 degree angle; perfect for larger seams and cracks, where the steel actually deforms as the piton is placed.
RURPs - Short for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton, this small piton (size of a postage stamp) is useful for thin, shallow seams. It is not a strong piece, and is mainly used for aid climbing, although it can feature as protection on extreme free routes (e.g. Rurp The Wild Berserk (E6 6b) at The Brand, Leicestershire, UK.
Bong - A very large piton, used in large cracks. Largely made obsolete by the SLCD.
An angle is the figure formed by two rays sharing a common endpoint, called the vertex of the angle. ... Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress. ... Handblown Glass A bong (shown right), also commonly known as a water pipe, is a device used to smoke substances, typically tobacco and sometimes drugs. ... Spring loaded camming device in a parallel crack A three-cam SLCD manufactured by Metolius. ...


References

  • "The Brand, Leicestershire, UK".

  Results from FactBites:
 
Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: When to use pitons??? (1429 words)
But I'm also sure you realize pitons are no longer placed in the gunks or most other trad areas because they simply aren't as effective as modern gear and they scar the hell out of the rock (hence pin scars).
Sure, pitons damage the rock but that´s not a big issue in the mountains as it is in tradclimbing crags.
Pitons are also great for bailing, they are relatively cheap and it´s easy to determine how solid the placement is (given you have the experience, ofcourse).
FM 3-97.61 Chapter 5 (3316 words)
Artificial anchors, such as pitons and bolts, are not widely accepted for use in all areas because of the scars they leave on the rock and the environment.
Pitons that have rings as attachment points might not display much change in sound as they are driven in as long as the ring moves freely.
Attach this loop to the piton using a girth hitch at the point where the piton enters the rock so that the girth hitch is snug against the rock.
  More results at FactBites »


 

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