Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi Peak from Taghafari Base Camp
Elevation	7,788 metres (25,550 feet) Ranked 27th (12th in Pakistan)
Location	Pakistan
Range	Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, Karakoram
Prominence	2818 m
Coordinates	36°08′32″N, 74°29′25″E
First ascent	1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey
Easiest route	glacier/snow/ice climb

Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range. It is situated in the Nagar valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means "shining wall" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak. Rakapushi and Dumani ("Mother of Mist"). It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Image File history File linksMetadata Download high resolution version (1024x768, 160 KB) Summary Rakaposhi peak (7,788m), as seen from Tagafari base camp. ... Rakaposhi (7,788m) from Taghafari base camp Taghafari or Tagafari is the base camp of Rakaposhi peak from Nagar side. ... A topographical summit is a point on a surface which is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. ... Mount Everest, the worlds highest mountain The following is a list of the worlds 100 highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. ... K2, the 2nd highest of the world Broad Peak, the 12th highest of the world Pakistan contains five of the highest fourteen independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) and many other high peaks, in the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Hindu Raj ranges. ... The Himalaya as seen from the International Space Station A mountain range is a group of mountains bordered by lowlands or separated from other mountain ranges by passes or rivers. ... Haramosh Peak (also known as Haramosh or Peak 58) is a mountain located in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. ... Located in the mountainous regions of Gilgit, Ladakh & Baltistan, Gilgit and Baltistan are in Pakistan, the Karakoram is one of the great Himalayan mountain ranges, with many of the highest and most daunting peaks of the world. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height or shoulder drop (in America) or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains, also known as peaks. ... Map of Earth showing lines of latitude (horizontally) and longitude (vertically), Eckert VI projection; large version (pdf, 1. ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... Mike Banks (born 1958) is a British climber and mountaineer. ... Tom Patey (1932-25th May 1970) was a Scottish climber, mountaineer and writer. ... Southern and northern Mount Everest climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. ... Lyskamm, 4 527 m, Pennine Alps A mountain is a landform that extends above the surrounding terrain in a limited area. ... Located in the mountainous regions of Gilgit, Ladakh & Baltistan, Gilgit and Baltistan are in Pakistan, the Karakoram is one of the great Himalayan mountain ranges, with many of the highest and most daunting peaks of the world. ... The Himalaya as seen from the International Space Station A mountain range is a group of mountains bordered by lowlands or separated from other mountain ranges by passes or rivers. ... The ancient pre-Akkadian and Akkadian city of Nagar on the Khabur River in northeastern Syria, is now represented by the mound named Tell Brak, 40m high, one of the tallest archaeological mounds in the Middle East, and about a kilometer long, the remains of one of the largest urban... An afternoon scene in Gilgit Gilgit (Urdu: گلگت) is the capital city of Northern Areas, Pakistan. ... Mount Everest, the worlds highest mountain The following is a list of the worlds 100 highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. ... K2, the 2nd highest of the world Broad Peak, the 12th highest of the world Pakistan contains five of the highest fourteen independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) and many other high peaks, in the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Hindu Raj ranges. ...

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night. Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... Mike Banks (born 1958) is a British climber and mountaineer. ... Tom Patey (1932-25th May 1970) was a Scottish climber, mountaineer and writer. ... Frostbite (congelatio in medical terminology) is the medical condition where damage is caused to skin and other tissues due to extreme cold. ...

Notable features

Rakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain, almost unmatched in the world. For example, it rises 6000m in only 16.5km horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are magnificent views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Hunza. A tourist spot in the town of Ghulmat (located in the Nagar Valley) called "Zero Point of Rakaposhi" is the closest convenient view point of the mountain. The Hunza River is the principal river of Hunza, in a region known as the Northern Areas of Pakistan. ... Karakoram Highway route map The highest point on the highway: the Khunjerab Pass The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is the highest paved international road in the world. ...

Time line

• 1892 Martin Conway explores the south side of Rakaposhi.
• 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak (about 5,800m/19,000') via the northwest ridge.
• 1947 Secord returns with H. W. Tilman and two Swiss climbers; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800m/19,000' on the south-west spur.
• 1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340m/20,800'. Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.
• 1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163m/23,500' on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.
• 1958 The first ascent, noted above.
• 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.
• 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur (or North Ridge).
• 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.
• 1979 A Polish-Pakistani expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.
• 1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University, led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000m of fixed rope.
• 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.
• 1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.
• 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.
• 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.
• 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge (possibly the original route).
• 2000 An attempt from the East side (Bagrot Glacier).

1892 (MDCCCXCII) was a leap year starting on Friday (see link for calendar). ... Sir William Martin Conway (April 12, 1856 - April 19, 1937), English art critic and mountaineer, was the son of Reverend William Conway, afterwards canon of Westminster. ... Year 1938 (MCMXXXVIII) was a common year starting on Saturday (link will take you to calendar). ... Year 1947 (MCMXLVII) was a common year starting on Wednesday (the link is to a full 1947 calendar). ... Bill Tilman Major Harold William Bill Tilman, CBE, DSO, MC and Bar (14 February 1898–1977) was a mountaineer and explorer, famous for his Himalayan climbs and sailing voyages. ... Year 1954 (MCMLIV) was a common year starting on Friday of the Gregorian calendar. ... The University of Cambridge, located in Cambridge, England, is the second-oldest university in the English-speaking world, with a reputation as one of the worlds most prestigious universities. ... Year 1956 (MCMLVI) was a leap year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar. ... Year 1958 (MCMLVIII) was a common year starting on Wednesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... 1964 (MCMLXIV) was a leap year starting on Wednesday (the link is to a full 1964 calendar). ... 1971 (MCMLXXI) was a common year starting on Friday (the link is to a full 1971 calendar). ... 1973 (MCMLXXIII) was a common year starting on Monday. ... For the Smashing Pumpkins song, see 1979 (song). ... Waseda University ), often abbreviated to Sodai ) is the top private university in Japan, known for the liberal culture symbolized by its motto Independence of Learning. Apart from University of Tokyo, it is one of the most prestigious institutions of higher learning in Japan. ... 1984 (MCMLXXXIV) was a leap year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar. ... Barry Blanchard, North Face of Bravo Peak Barry Blanchard (born in Calgary, Alberta, Canada on March 29, 1959) is an associate director at Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is one of North Americas best known mountaineers and mountain writers. ... 1985 (MCMLXXXV) was a common year starting on Tuesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... 1987 (MCMLXXXVII) was a common year starting on Thursday of the Gregorian calendar. ... 1986 (MCMLXXXVI) was a common year starting on Wednesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... 1995 (MCMXCV) was a common year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar. ... 1997 (MCMXCVII) was a common year starting on Wednesday of the Gregorian calendar. ... This article is about the year 2000. ...

Climbing routes

The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):

• Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles). Has been repeated.
• Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the SW Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
• North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine-style (capsule style) ascent.

Attempts have also been made from the east side (Bagrot Glacier), the East Ridge, and the North Face.

See also

• List of Mountains in Pakistan
• Northern Areas, Pakistan
• Highest Mountains of the World

K2, the 2nd highest of the world Broad Peak, the 12th highest of the world Pakistan contains five of the highest fourteen independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) and many other high peaks, in the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Hindu Raj ranges. ... The Northern Areas (Urdu: شمالی علاقے ) or Gilgit-Baltistan is the northernmost region of Pakistani-administered Kashmir. ... Mount Everest, the worlds highest mountain The following is a list of the worlds 100 highest mountains per height above sea level, all of which are located in Asia. ...

Sources

• Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
• Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995 ISBN 0-89886-456-9.
• Himalayan Index
• DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram (Corrected versions of SRTM data)

External links

• A Rakaposhi web page
• Expedition Rakaposhi
• Rakaposhi on Peakware - photos and unofficial summit log.
• Photos from Rakaposhi, by Waqas Usman
• Rakaposhi Hiking Club Nawabshah Sindh
• A list of mountains by local relief and steepness showing Rakaposhi as the world #3.
• Northern Pakistan - highly detailed place marks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth

Rakaposhi from Base Camp Image File history File linksMetadata Download high resolution version (1024x768, 160 KB) Summary Rakaposhi peak (7,788m), as seen from Tagafari base camp. ...	Morning light on Rakaposhi Volker Thewalt Dr. Volker Thewalt has kindly given written permission to use this photo. ...	Close up of Rakaposhi. Volker Thewalt Dr. Volker Thewalt has kindly given written permission to use this photo. ...	Rakaposhi from the south of Aliabad. Volker Thewalt Dr. Volker Thewalt has kindly given written permission to use this photo. ...
Panoramic shot of Diran (left, 7,257m) and Rakaposhi (right, 7,788m) from a point before entering Taghafari base camp. Image File history File links Download high resolution version (3093x1271, 686 KB) Summary This image can only give a hint of the beauty of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. ... Diran is a mountain in the Karakoram region of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. ...	Rakaposhi Peak From KKH Image File history File linksMetadata Rakaposhi. ...