Mount Elbrus
Mount Elbrus
Elevation	5,642 metres (18,510 ft) [1]
Location	Russia
Range	Caucasus
Prominence	4,741 metres (15,554 ft) Ranked 10th
Coordinates	43°21′18″N 42°26′21″E / 43.355, 42.43917Coordinates: 43°21′18″N 42°26′21″E / 43.355, 42.43917
Topo map	Elbrus and Upper Baksan Valley by EWP[2] [3]
Type	Stratovolcano (dormant)
Age of rock	Unknown
Last eruption	50 AD ± 50 years
First ascent	(west summit) 1874, by F. Crauford Grove, Frederick Gardner, Horace Walker, Peter Knubel and guide Ahiya Sottaiev (lower summit) 22 July 1829 by Chelar Hachirov
Easiest route	basic snow/ice climb
Listing	Seven Summits Volcanic Seven Summits

Mt. Elbrus

Location in Russia

Mount Elbrus (Russian: Эльбрус) is a peak located in the western Caucasus mountains, in Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, Russia, near the border of Georgia, in northern Iranian plateau. A stratovolcano that has lain dormant for about 2,000 years, it is the highest mountain in the Caucasus which belongs to Europe (if the border between Europe and Asia is considered to be at the watershed divide of the Caucasus, or anywhere south of this). Mt. Elbrus (west summit) stands at 5,642 metres (18,510 ft) and can be considered to be the highest mountain in Europe; it is also the highest point of Russia. The east summit is slightly lower: 5,621 metres (18,442 ft). Image File history File links 19th-century postcard of Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus Mountains. ... A topographical summit is a point on a surface which is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. ... For exotic financial options, see Mountain range (options). ... This article is about the terrestrial mountain range. ... In topography, prominence, also known as autonomous height, relative height or shoulder drop (in America) or prime factor (in Europe), is a concept used in the categorization of hills and mountains, also known as peaks. ... This is a list of mountains ordered by their topographic prominence. ... Map of Earth showing lines of latitude (horizontally) and longitude (vertically), Eckert VI projection; large version (pdf, 1. ... Map of Earth showing lines of latitude (horizontally) and longitude (vertically), Eckert VI projection; large version (pdf, 1. ... // Topographic maps are a variety of maps characterized by large-scale detail and quantitative representation of relief, usually using contour lines in modern mapping, but historically using a variety of methods. ... Mountains can be characterized in several ways. ... A cutaway diagram of a stratovolcano Mount St. ... Diagram of geological time scale. ... Cleveland Volcano in the Aleutian Islands of Alaska photographed from the International Space Station For other uses, see Volcano (disambiguation). ... In climbing, a first ascent (FA) is the first climb to reach the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route. ... is the 203rd day of the year (204th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 1829 was a common year starting on Thursday (see link for calendar). ... Southern and northern Mount Everest climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. ... There are many notable lists of mountains around the world. ... The Seven Summits on an Elevation World Map. ... The Volcanic Seven Summits on an Elevation World Map. ... Image File history File links Size of this preview: 800 × 285 pixelsFull resolution (3347 × 1193 pixel, file size: 88 KB, MIME type: image/png) File links The following pages on the English Wikipedia link to this file (pages on other projects are not listed): Kemerovo Vladivostok Khabarovsk Nizhny Novgorod Birobidzhan... This article is about the terrestrial mountain range. ... Capital Nalchik Area - total - % water Ranked 83rd - 12,500 km² - negligible Population - Total - Density Ranked 60th - est. ... Karachay-Cherkess Republic (Russian: , or, less formal, Karachay-Cherkessia ) is a federal subject of Russia (a republic). ... Topographic map of the Iranian plateau connecting to Anatolia in the west and Hindu Kush and Himalaya in the east Iranian plateau is both a geographical area of South or West Asia, home of ancient civilizations[1], and a geological area of Eurasia north of the great folded mountain belts... A cutaway diagram of a stratovolcano Mount St. ... For other uses, see Europe (disambiguation). ... A transcontinental nation is a country belonging to more than one continent. ... For other uses, see Asia (disambiguation). ... This article describes extreme locations on Earth. ... For other uses, see Mountain (disambiguation). ... This is a list of the extreme points of Russia, the points that are farther north, south, east or west than any other location in the country. ...

Etymology

The name Elbrus is a sound metathesis of Alborz. ^[4] The name Alborz is derived from that of Harā Bərəzaitī, a legendary mountain in Persian mythology ^[4]. Harā Bərəzaitī reflects Proto-Iranian *Harā Bṛzatī. *Bṛzatī is the feminine form of the adjective *bṛzant- "high", the reconstructed ancestor of modern Persian boland (بلند) and Barz/Berazandeh^[4]. Harā may be interpreted as "watch" or "guard", from an Indo-European root *ser- "protect"^[4]. . In Middle Persian, Harā Bərəzaitī became Harborz, Modern Persian Alborz, which is cognate with Elbrus^[4]. Metathesis is a sound change that alters the order of phonemes in a word. ... Alborz Mountains Mount Damavand, Irans tallest mountain is located in Alborz mountain range. ... Alborz Mountains Mount Damavand, Irans tallest mountain is located in Alborz mountain range. ... Look up cognate in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. ...

There may be some connection between Elbrus and an Indo-European root *Alba meaning "mountain" and "white" (cf. snow) which appears in such names as Albania and the Alps.^{[citation needed]}

Other local names

• Jin-Padishah (Джин-падишах) — a Turkic name of Perso-Arabic origin
• Albar, Albors (Альбар, Альборс) — tall (Iranian)
• Ialbuzi, Yalbuz (იალბუზი, Ялбуз) — snow mane (Georgian)
• Uashkhemakhue' (УIэщхэмахуэ) — Mount of Happiness( Adyghe people Circassians)

The Adyghe or Adygs are a people of the northwest Caucasus region, principally inhabiting Adygeya (23 %) (now a constituent republic of the Russian Federation) and Karachay-Cherkessia (11 %) (where they are named as Cherkes). Shapsug National District, an autonomous district founded for Shapsigh (or Shapsugh) tribe living on the Black... Circassians is a term derived from the Turkic Cherkess (Çerkes), and is not the self-designation of any people. ...

Location

Elbrus stands 20 km (12 mi) north of the main range of the Greater Caucasus and 65 km (40 mi) south-southwest of the Russian town of Kislovodsk. Its permanent icecap feeds 22 glaciers which in turn give rise to the Baksan, Kuban, and Malka Rivers. ^[5] Greater Caucasus (Russian: , sometimes translated as Caucasus Major, Big Caucasus or Large Caucasus) is the major mountain range of Caucasus mountains. ... Kislovodsk (Russian: ) is a city in Stavropol Krai, Russia. ... An ice cap is a dome-shaped water ice mass that covers less than 50,000 km² of land area (usually covering a highland area). ... Perito Moreno Glacier Patagonia Argentina Aletsch Glacier, Switzerland Icebergs breaking off glaciers at Cape York, Greenland This article is about the geological formation. ... Kuban (Russian: ) is a river in Russia, in the Northern Caucasus region. ... Malka River, also known as Balyksu River (Russian: Малка), is a river in Kabardino-Balkaria in Russia, Tereks left tributary. ...

History

Satellite picture of Mount Elbrus

The ancients knew the mountain as Strobilus, Latin for 'pine cone', a direct loan from Greek strobilos, meaning 'a twisted object' — a long established botanical term that describes the shape of the volcano's summit. Myth held that here Zeus had chained Prometheus, the Titan who had stolen fire from the gods and given it to ancient man — likely a reference to historic volcanic activity. The lower of the two summits was first ascended on 10 July 1829 (Julian date) by Kilar Hachirov, an Circassian Kabardian guide for a Russian army scientific expedition led by General Emmanuel, and the higher (by about 40 m - 130 ft) in 1874 by a British expedition led by F. Crauford Grove and including Frederick Gardner, Horace Walker, a Swiss climber Peter Knubel. During the early years of the Soviet Union, mountaineering became a popular sport of the masses, and there was tremendous traffic on the mountain. In the winter of 1936, a very large group of inexperienced Komsomol members attempted the mountain, and ended up suffering many fatalities when they slipped on the ice and fell to their deaths. The Germans briefly occupied the area surrounding the mountain during World War II with 10,000 soldiers of a Gebirgsjäger (Mountain Troop) division. A possibly apocryphal story tells of a Soviet pilot being given a medal for bombing the main mountaineering hut, Priyut 11 ("Refuge of the 11"), while it was occupied. He was then later nominated for a medal for not hitting the hut, but instead the fuel supply, leaving the hut standing for future generations. When news reached Adolf Hitler that a detachment of mountaineers was sent by the general officer commanding the German division to climb to the summit of Elbrus and plant the swastika flag at its top, he reportedly flew into a rage, called the achievement a "stunt" and threatened to court martial the general.^[6] Download high resolution version (1000x971, 206 KB)Credit(s): University of Maryland Global Land Cover Facility Source: http://earthobservatory. ... Download high resolution version (1000x971, 206 KB)Credit(s): University of Maryland Global Land Cover Facility Source: http://earthobservatory. ... Prometheus Brings Fire to Mankind, by Heinrich Füger, (1817). ... is the 191st day of the year (192nd in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. ... Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 1829 was a common year starting on Thursday (see link for calendar). ... Circassian language is used in a number of ways: as a synonym for the Adyghe language; as a synonym for the Kabardian language; as a term for a distinct language that includes both Adyghe and Kabardian. ... The Kabardian horse breed is a breed from Caucasus, currently part of Russia. ... An open crevasse. ... Komsomol (Комсомол) is a syllabic abbreviation word, from the Russian Kommunisticheski Soyuz Molodiozhi (Коммунистический союз молодёжи), or Communist Union of Youth. The organisation served as the youth wing of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union ( CPSU), the youngest members being fourteen years old, the upper limit for an age... Combatants Allied powers: China France Great Britain Soviet Union United States and others Axis powers: Germany Italy Japan and others Commanders Chiang Kai-shek Charles de Gaulle Winston Churchill Joseph Stalin Franklin Roosevelt Adolf Hitler Benito Mussolini Hideki Tōjō Casualties Military dead: 17,000,000 Civilian dead: 33,000... Hitler redirects here. ...

Mount Elbrus and its two peaks

The Soviet Union encouraged ascents of Elbrus, and in 1956 it was climbed en masse by 400 mountaineers to mark the 400th anniversary of the incorporation of Kabardino-Balkaria, the Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic where Elbrus was located. Image File history File links File links The following pages link to this file: Mount Elbrus ... Image File history File links File links The following pages link to this file: Mount Elbrus ... Mountaineering is an umbrella term that can variously be used to describe the actions of climbing, hillwalking and scrambling. ... Capital Nalchik Area - total - % water Ranked 83rd - 12,500 km² - negligible Population - Total - Density Ranked 60th - est. ... In its final decades of its existence, the Soviet Union consisted of 15 Soviet Socialist Republics (SSR), often called simply Soviet republics. ...

From 1959 through 1976, a cable car system was built in stages that can take visitors as high as 3,800 metres (12,500 ft). There is a wide variety of routes up the mountain, but the normal route, which is free of crevasses, continues more or less straight up the slope from the end of the cable car system. During the summer, it is not uncommon for 100 people to be attempting the summit via this route each day. Winter ascents are rare, and are usually undertaken only by very experienced climbers. Elbrus is notorious for its brutal winter weather, and summit attempts are few and far between. The climb is not technically difficult, but it is physically arduous because of the elevations and the frequent strong winds. The average annual death toll on Elbrus is 15-30, primarily due to many unorganized and poorly equipped attempts to summit the mountain.^[7] An Aerial tramway in Italy. ... Measuring snowpack in a crevasse on the Easton Glacier, North Cascades, USA A crevasse is a crack or fissure in a glacier or snow field. ...

Mount Elbrus should not be confused with the Alborz (also called Elburz) mountains in Iran, which also derive their name from the legendary mountain Harā Bərəzaitī in Persian mythology. Alborz Mountains Mount Damavand, Irans tallest mountain is located in Alborz mountain range. ... Harā BÉ™rÉ™zaitÄ« is the name given in the Avestan language to a legendary mountain or mountain range around which the world is structured. ... The beliefs and practices of the culturally and linguistically related group of ancient peoples who inhabited the Iranian Plateau and its borderlands, as well as areas of Central Asia from the Black Sea to Khotan (modern Ho-tien, China), form Persian mythology. ...

Parts of this article are from the NASA Earth Observatory^[8] NASA Earth Observatory is an online publication of NASA where the public can access satellite imagery and scientific information about our planet for free. ...

In 1997, a Land Rover Defender drove to the summit, breaking into the Guinness Book of Records.^[9] The Land Rover Defender is a British four wheel drive Off-road utility vehicle. ...

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Mount Elbrus

Climbing Routes

Normal Route

The Normal Route is the easiest, safest and fastest on account of the cable car and chairlift system which operates from about 9am till 3pm. Starting for the summit at about 2am from the Diesel Hut should allow you just enough time to get back down to the chairlift if you move efficiently. Note in bad weather the chairlift section may be closed, also note the chairlift ride is 15 minutes long and can be very cold, particularly if you have come up from the hot valley wearing a T shirt and shorts!

The majority of groups take the cable car system from Azau roadhead to Mir Station from where either a 1 hour walk or a chairlift takes them to Garabashi - "The Barrels". Above it may be possible to hire a snow cat to take you to the Diesel Hut (site of burnt down Priut Hut) or higher to Pastukhova Rocks. Walking this takes 90 minutes to the hut and almost 2 hours more to the rocks. The walk to the Saddle takes another 3 to 4 hours and from there to the summit allow a further 5 to 6 hours.

There are no major difficulties on the route however after strong winds icy sections may be exposed and a fall could result in a slide. Particular care should be taken on the traversing ascent from the Saddle. The Saddle hut is a ruin that offers no shelter. There are few crevasses of any size or danger if you stick to the route but only 50m off the route you could be in dangerous terrain. Details and diagrams: ^[10]

Sample Itinerary

1. Fly to Mineralny Vody. Private bus transfer to base hotel in Baksan Valley.
2. Acclimatisation walk from hotel.
3. Ascend cable car system to Garabashi Huts. Possible acclimatisation walk to Pastukhova Rocks.
4. Acclimatisation walk to Pastukhova Rocks. Possible attempt on sumit if very well acclimatised on arrival.
5. Attempt on Elbrus.
6. Another possible attempt on Elbrus.
7. Descend to hotel in the Baksan Valley.
8. Drive back to Mineralnye Vody for return flights.

^[11]

Kiukurtliu Route

A longer ascent route starts from below the cable-way Mir station and heads west over glacier slopes towards the Khotiutau pass. Some distance before reaching this the south spur of the Kiukurtliu Cupola is climbed to a broad glaciated saddle behind pt.4912 (top of the SW spur). Now a rising traverse north is made to attain the easy NW spur by which the summit is gained. This expedition involves 3 nights camping-bivouacs; parties also need a rope, axe and crampons. Kiukurtliu route details

Other Routes

Climbing Elbrus from other directions is a tougher proposition because of lack of permanent high facilities. Freshfield always maintained that a route from the east up the Iryk valley, Irykchat glacier and over the Irykchat pass (3667m) on to snowfields below long rock ribs of the east spur would become the shortest and most used approach. A hut built long ago on the north side of the lrykchat pass is now wrecked, and in any event the vertical interval calls for at least 2 camp-bivouacs. Other route details and map

Travel Issues

Visas

A full passport and visa are required when visiting Russia. Russian entry visas can be obtained at local Russian Embassy or Consulate.

Russian entry visa A proper invitation (or visa support) from the Authorized Russian organization is required this can be obtained: - Direct from an authorized Russian Travel Company or from an approved hotel for tourist visa; - Visa support from the Ministry of Foreigner Affairs for the business visa; - Visa support from the Passport and Visa Department (OVIR) of the Ministry of Internal Affairs for the private or homestay visa. If you are planning your trip through an agent outside of Russia they will arrange the "Visa Support". This Visa Support is sent to the relevant Russian Consulate directly.

To issue the Russian entry visa your passport should be valid at least 6 months beyond intended stay and have at least 2 free pages in the passport. With your valid passport and the visa support you should apply to the nearest Russian Consulate. Usually to apply for Russian Visa it is necessary to submit the following documents: 2 identical passport size pictures (black-and-white or color) signed on the back; a completed visa application form (2 per person) signed by the applicant. All entries must be typed or printed in block letters in English or Russian. Usually the processing time is 7 working days. But before applying for visa please contact the nearest Russian Consulate as there might be changes due to local or governmental restrictions. As a rule allow a month from start to finish. Faster processing is possible but incurs penalty costs. ^{[12] [13]}

Other Permits

Three are required:

1. Border Zone Permit. Foreigners require a permit to be in any area south of the Baksan. This is obtained at the military head office of the border rangers in Nalchik. You should also be registered at their local posts: in the Baksan valley at the Alpine Base Baksan; in the Adyrsu valley near the Alpine Camp Ullutau.

Pogranotryad in Nalchik issues permits at Kabardinskaya street 192. Passes are issued between 9.00 and 13.00. if you want to have a go make sure you have the following documents:

- a stamped letter of application from an MFA approved organisation; - passports of all participants; - a route sheet.

This sounds easy but Russian bureaucracy will probably force you to stay in Nalchik for a few days if you try it as a foreigner. It is best to do it through an agency.

2. Prielbrusie National Park Permit. No strict system exists for obtaining this permit. Prices are negotiable. Park offices are located in Elbrus village.

3. OVIR Registration. Foreigners have to be registered in OVIR (Visa and Registration department) in Tyrnyauz. Generally hotels arrange registration. Last year the "official" fee was 50 roubles per person. It may be obtained at Moneralnye Vody airport at a much higher price. Unregistered climbers may face a fine that can be very high - but negotiable.

All of these permits are generally arranged in advance by your agent. ^[14]

Environmental Issues

It is said to be home to the 'world's nastiest' outhouse which is close to being the highest privy in Europe. The title was conferred by Outside Magazine following a 1993 search and article. [[2]] The outhouse is surrounded by and covered in ice, perched off the end of a rock, and with a pipe pouring effluvia onto the mountain. [[3]] Outhouse near Crabapple Lake, Washington, United States, with wafer board walls, and a fiberglass ceiling An outhouse, (also known as a privy, kybo, jakes or earth-closet) usually refers to a type of toilet in a small structure separate from the main building which does not have a flush or...

References

1. ^ The World Book Encyclopedia - Page 317 by World Book, Inc
2. ^ Mount Elbrus Map Sample
3. ^ EWP. Mount Elbrus and Upper Baksan Valley Map and Guide [map], 2nd edition, 1:50,000 with mountaineering information, EWP Map Guides. Cartography by EWP. (2007) ISBN 978 0906227954.
4. ^ ^{a b c d e} Encyclopaedia Iranica, "Alborz", W. Eilers [1]
5. ^ Robin Collomb and Andrew Wielochowski. Caucasus from Elbrus to Kazbek [map], 1st edition, 1:200,000 with general information, Map Guides. Cartography by EWP. (1993) ISBN 906227-54-2.
6. ^ Kershaw, Ian. Hitler: Nemesis 1936-1945.
7. ^ SummitPost - Interview with Boris Tilov - the Chef of the rescue service of Elbrus region - Trip Reports
8. ^ EO Newsroom: New Images - Mt. Elbrus
9. ^ Land Rover Defender climbs Mount Elbrus
10. ^ Desription, diagram and map of Normal Route
11. ^ Short Elbrus sample itinerary
12. ^ Russian Visa Information
13. ^ Russian Visa Form
14. ^ Elbrus area permits

• Anthony Huxley, Standard Encyclopedia of the World's Mountains (New York: Putnam, 1962)
• Smithsonian Institution Global Volcanism Program: Mount Elbrus

Putnam is a surname. ...

External links

• Mount Elbrus on SummitPost
• Mount Elbrus on TierraWiki.org
• "Elbrus, Mount." Encyclopædia Britannica. 2006. Encyclopædia Britannica Online. 14 Nov. 2006 <http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9032240>.
• Computer generated summit panoramas North South index. There are a few discontinuities due to incomplete data. Politically the Caucasus are in Europe but topographically they are in Asia.
• NASA Earth Observatory pages on Mount Elbrus: [4], [5]
• Mount Elbrus live webcam (view from Mount Cheget) (the web cam is not working)
• Climbing Mount Elbrus information
• Elbrus Photos (Hundreds of large photographs of Mt. Elbrus and the vicinity)
• A trip report
• Topographic map of Caucasus